College Buttress

This buttress is situated at the right-hand end of the lower tier facing the turquoise pool. It consists of a bay of rock with some excellent sport climbs and four long-neglected but worthwhile traditional climbs.

a. Good Friend (6c+) desperate boulder problem b. Bad Friend (6b) short wall c. Unknown Friend (6b) thin corner

1. Old Fiends (6c+) ★ excellent wall above problematic bulge on perfect rock. Rebolted

2. Carvery (6a+) superb calcite crack onto delicate face above. Can be dusty.

3. The Wrong Unconquerable (6b) ★ classic crackline on unusual rock to superb finale on a layback flake. "It’s the same as Left Unconquerable but the other way around."

4. Fartless (7a+) ★ short tricky section low down followed by hard fingery sequence on upper wall. Bouldery.

5. Strap a Doc to Me (6c) the unusually fluted face on the right. Again worthwhile.

6. The Gypsy King’s (6c) ★ isolated arete between faces with fine climbing. Unusual. Rebolted

7. Gooncrack (6b+) obvious crack in sidewall with definite short crux section

8. Forfeit or Doom (6b+) ★ the prominent arete with some good climbing above the pinnacle.

9. Meshrug a my shoulders (6b) face about right-hand side of pinnacle on ledge.

10. Profitless (6b+) ★ balancy face climbing above ledge to strenuous finale through crack in overlap.

11. Merry Pheasant (6a+) thin grassy cracks to the right ledge to another crack through the overlap. Rebolted

12. Moontalk (6b+) technical face climbing with a short hard section. Tricky final move. Rebolted

13. Frantic Manoeuvres (6b)★ ★ excellent clean climbing past a halfway ledge and final tricky move

14. Moon Track (6b) ★ fine climbing via a thin crack system to a crux finale

15. Bonedigger (6a+) ★ prominent thin crack now cleaned out

16. Prefect Day (6b) ★★ highly pleasant face climbing with tricky moves through the final steepening. Rebolted

17. Silently Sprung (6b) ★ the face and arete just to the right. Rebolted

18. Steppin’ Off (5) cleaned face leading to corner

19. Thirty Nine and a Half Steps (6a) cleaned crackline and short headwall now fully gardened

20. White Wind (6a+) the final section of face gives enjoyable climbing with a half height ledge. Rebolted

21. Blind Wind (6a) crack system and short wall at right-hand edge of wall