College Buttress

This buttress is situated at the right-hand end of the lower tier facing the turquoise pool. It consists of a bay of rock with some excellent sport climbs and four long-neglected but worthwhile traditional climbs.

a. Good Friend (6c+)
Desperate boulder problem. b. Bad Friend (6b)
Short wall. c. Unknown Friend (6b)
Thin corner. 1. Old Fiends (6c+) ★
Excellent wall above problematic bulge on perfect rock.

2. Carvery (6a+)
Superb calcite crack onto delicate face above. Can be dusty.

3. The Wrong Unconquerable (6b) ★
Classic crackline on unusual rock to superb finale on a layback flake. "It’s the same as Left Unconquerable but the other way around."

4. Fartless (7a+) ★
Short tricky section low down followed by hard fingery sequence on upper wall. Bouldery.

5. Strap a Doc to Me (6c)
The unusually fluted face on the right. Again worthwhile.

6. The Gypsy King’s (6c) ★
Isolated arête between faces with fine climbing. Unusual.

7. Gooncrack (6b+)
Obvious crack in sidewall with definite short crux section.

8. Forfeit or Doom (6b+) ★
The prominent arête with some good climbing above the pinnacle.

9. Meshrug a my shoulders (6b)
Face about right-hand side of pinnacle on ledge.

10. Profitless (6b+) ★
Balancy face climbing above ledge to strenuous finale through crack in overlap.

11. Merry Pheasant (6a+)
Thin grassy cracks to the right ledge to another crack through the overlap.

12. Moontalk (6b+)
Technical face climbing with a short hard section. Tricky final move.

13. Frantic Manoeuvres (6b)★ ★
Excellent clean climbing past a halfway ledge and final tricky move.

14. Moon Track (6b) ★
Fine climbing via a thin crack system to a crux finale.

15. Bonedigger (6a+) ★
Prominent thin crack now cleaned out.

16. Prefect Day (6b) ★
Highly pleasant face climbing with tricky moves through the final steepening.

17. Silently Sprung (6b) ★
The face and arête just to the right.

18. Steppin’ Off (5)
Cleaned face leading to corner.

19. Thirty Nine and a Half Steps (6a)
Cleaned crackline and short headwall now fully gardened.

20. White Wind (6a+)
The final section of face gives enjoyable climbing with a half height ledge.

21. Blind Wind (6a)
Crack system and short wall at right-hand edge of wall.