College Buttress

This buttress is situated at the right-hand end of the lower tier facing the turquoise pool. It consists of a bay of rock with some excellent sport climbs and four long-neglected but worthwhile traditional climbs.

College Buttress lefthand

a. Good Friend (6c+)
Desperate boulder problem. b. Bad Friend (6b)
Short wall. c. Unknown Friend (6b)
Thin corner. 1. Old Fiends (6c+)
Excellent wall above problematic bulge on perfect rock.

2. Carvery (6a+)
Superb calcite crack onto delicate face above. Can be dusty.

3. The Wrong Unconquerable (6b)
Classic crackline on unusual rock to superb finale on a layback flake. "It’s the same as Left Unconquerable but the other way around."

4. Fartless (7a+)
Short tricky section low down followed by hard fingery sequence on upper wall. Bouldery.

5. Strap a Doc to Me (6c)
The unusually fluted face on the right. Again worthwhile.

Harpur Hill College Buttress Righthand

6. The Gypsy King’s (6c)
Isolated arête between faces with fine climbing. Unusual.

7. Gooncrack (6b+)
Obvious crack in sidewall with definite short crux section.

8. Forfeit or Doom (6b+)
The prominent arête with some good climbing above the pinnacle.

9. Meshrug a my shoulders (6b)
Face about right-hand side of pinnacle on ledge.

10. Profitless (6b+)
Balancy face climbing above ledge to strenuous finale through crack in overlap.

11. Merry Pheasant (6a+)
Thin grassy cracks to the right ledge to another crack through the overlap.

12. Moontalk (6b+)
Technical face climbing with a short hard section. Tricky final move.

13. Frantic Manoeuvres (6b)★
Excellent clean climbing past a halfway ledge and final tricky move.

14. Moon Track (6b)
Fine climbing via a thin crack system to a crux finale.

15. Bonedigger (6a+)
Prominent thin crack now cleaned out.

16. Prefect Day (6b)
Highly pleasant face climbing with tricky moves through the final steepening.

17. Silently Sprung (6b)
The face and arête just to the right.

18. Steppin’ Off (5)
Cleaned face leading to corner.

19. Thirty Nine and a Half Steps (6a)
Cleaned crackline and short headwall now fully gardened.

20. White Wind (6a+)
The final section of face gives enjoyable climbing with a half height ledge.

21. Blind Wind (6a)
Crack system and short wall at right-hand edge of wall.