Cairn Sector

Cairn area topo

1. Argy Bargy (5)
Pleasant climbing on the left-hand side of the face.

2. The Misfits (6a)
Flake, thin crack and short headwall. Gold BRs.

3. Hissing Sid (6b)
Wall via small overhang and easier wall above.

4. Slippery Bill HVS 5a
The orange crack/groove line finishing straight up from ledge.

5. Ratline (7b) ★★
The thin crackline just left of Cairn is actually more of a face climb. Sequency, strenuous, superb and on excellent rock.

6. Cairn (7a) ★★★
Hard moves gain the striking rounded, right facing runnel feature. From the top of this break out left onto the face from the third BR. A pre-placed long draw on the second bolt is helpful. Superb climbing on immaculate natural limestone.

7. Stealth (7a) ★★
Breaks out rightwards from Cairn to go direct to the prominent chain belay.

8. Orca (6c)
Direct through the overlap to join Great White.

9. Great White (6a)
Slabby wall above overhang.

10. The Naked Spur(4+)
very pleasant sharp arête.

11. Assault and Battery (6b+)
Short technical wall tucked in alcove. Gold BRs.

Ground and Pound (6a)
The wide corner crack swing right into Trial and then moving up the thin crack before exiting left to its belay

12. Trial and Error (7a)
The short arête packs in an interesting variety of gritstone-esque moves and is best avoided on hot days. The route has now been extended to the full height of the cliff with the belay higher than is marked.

13. Senile Delinquents (5+)
Flake and wide crack via roof.

14. Cabin Fever (6b)
Crack, roof and short wall to shared belay

15. Pebbles (6a+)
The first of 5 lines on the small buttress.

Wilmer (5)
Takes second bolt line, just R of the crack.

16. Fred Flintstone (5)
Left-hand side of short wall with peculiar ‘worm’ feature.

17. Barney Rubble (5)
Crack direct.

18. Yabba Dabba Doo (4)
Direct line via large hole.

The fine compact wall to the right has several instense slab routes.

Cairn slabs area topo

Mueslli (6b)
Climb the wall just left of Petit Dejeuner.

19. Petit Dejeuner (4+)
Left-hand line via faint scoop. Straight up from ledge.

20. Breakfast at Safeways (6b+)
Left-hand line via faint scoop. Straight up from ledge.

21. 99p Special (6a+)
Thin crack from just left of toe of buttress, then rightwards.

22. Food for Sport (6a)
The arête starting from the toe of the buttress.

23. Toast (5+)

24. Over Easy (6a+)
The right-hand side of the arête

Full Set (6a+)
Technical face climbing on the right-hand side of the wall. Just off topo.

Short Sport (6b)
Small face on right with 3 bolts

BYGOF (6a)
Takes the arête to its right using the same bolts.

Granola (6a)
Right again starting up the crack and block then veering L higher up to finish on the BB of Short Sport.

Twilight Section

Above Hissing Sid and Slippery Bill is a complex wall system containing seven worthwhile pitches. The three right-hand routes are centred around an obvious arête whilst the first four climbs are situated on an excellent wall to the left. Described from left to right.

Twilight section

1. Inconsiderate Blinking (6a+)
Thin crack and arête

2. Unilateral Thinking (6c)
Short difficult arête and fine wall above slightly right.

3. The Light (7a)
The centre of the wall via initial blunt arête. Superb and fingery.

4. Take Flight (6c+)
Thin crack to scoop and arête on left.

5. Buxton Goes French (6b+)
Delicate climbing up brushed slab. NO arête.

6. Outer Limits (6b)
The left-hand side of the obvious arête. Excellent.

7. Twilight Zone (6a+)
Right-hand side of arête. Lower-off on left.