Papacy Buttress

Papacy Buttress

The first 3 routes climb up the smooth wall, high and to the left of the left flank of the buttress.

1. Angleterre (5)
Rib and shallow groove. Very pleasant climbing

2. This England (7a+)
very technical wall and vague arête. Low in the grade.

Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b
Pleasant crackline to the right, hard to enter.

Gritarête (7a)
The first route on the buttress proper is reached by a short scramble up its left side. Unusual climbing up rounded, grit-like, features that’s technical and balancy.

Snake Eyes E3 5c
This takes obvious thin, snaking crack in the left side of the buttress. Finish at the bolt belay of the last route.

Strangled at Birth (6c)
Start beneath a short, red, left facing groove with a staple in its left wall. Climb the groove until it’s possible to step left into the the smooth rounded scoop. Continue up the delicate face above. Rewards good technique and commitment more than brute strength. 5 bolts.

3. Sincerely Yours (6b)
Start a few metres down and right of the short red groove. Pleasant face climbing on good rock with an easy start and tricky central section.

4. I’m in the Sin Bin (5+)
Another good addition taking thin cracks and a shallow groove to finish.

5. Sin City E1 5b
Tackles a groove to the right, odd loose holds direct to the first break, then continues direct via a washed groove and steep finishing crack.

6. Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ★★
Classic trad. line well worth seeking out.

7. Coral Seas (6a) ★★
Another varied line on excellent rock. Fine finish.

8. Avarice Allsorts (6c+)
Excellent climbing via the stepped roofs and blunt left arête of the water-worn scoop.

Lust (VS 4c)
This is the prominent gully line that splits the buttress.

8a. Ask Mr. T. for Tea (6c+)
Start just to the left of the main gully below a prominent roof. Follow a rib up and pass the roof on its right side. Climb the groove feature with tricky, insecure moves to join Rocky Variations. Continue up and step left across the gully of Lust and to finish climbing up the left side of smooth white runnel.

9. Rocky Variations (6b+) ★★
Fine climbing via the left edge of a large scoop and the right arête of the water-worn scoop.

10. Apollo Creed (6b) ★★
Start as for the previous route moving right and up from the first bolt. More superb face climbing via a direct line to the right of Rocky Variations

11. The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b
An excellent climb taking a wandering line across the face.

12 Luddite Though Police E3 6a
Direct finish to ‘Virtues’ via thin crack.

13. Penile Servitude E2 5b
Takes the thin crack just to its right, then the left-hand side of the obvious arête and the face above.

14. Full Frontal (6c) ★★
A very worthwhile pitch taking the front face of the slim white pillar and the excellent face above. 6c+ direct.

15. El Camino Real E1 5b
The obvious crack and groove line finishing on the left via the BRs of Full Frontal or the crackline to its right.

16. Power of Soul (7b) ★★
A brilliant route via the faint crackline to the right. Difficulties are centred around the third BR.

17. Dementia Normale (6a)
Wall and thin crackline to right. Finish leftwards to BB.

18. The Last Straw (6b)
Pillar/wall with thin cracks and steep start.

19. Figure of Law (7a)
Pillar up and to right of last route, 4BRs. Superb climbing.

20. I am the Law (6b+)
Thin cracks to the right with a trying start.