Saddam's Wall


A good, recently redeveloped wall. North-facing but protected from the wind and with easy access for an evening or joint visit with another crack. Al Tikrit is a classic, south-facing wall with a handfull of good little routes with a tremendous outlook


From the parking in Mewslade - please make payment in honesty box - follow the coast path through the farm and a couple of gates before striking down via a vague seaward path to a gate atop a long gully leading down to the sea. Go through this and over the stile and continuing down the gully for a short way (100m) before breaking out left, facing out, into a subsidiary gully where the buttress can be found.

Saddam’s Wall topo

1. Chemical Ali (4+)
The left edge of the wall reaching a shared belay from the left

2. Barzan Lost his Head (6a)
The crack and wall left of the overgrown groove

3. Wam Bam Thank You Saddam E4 6a
The groove to the hole moving slightly right via a wall and finishing crack

4. Al Tikrit (6b+) ★★★
The shallow groove and fine wall to the right. A little classic

5. A Fragile Peace E3 5c ★★
Perfect rock via an undercut bulge complete with jug on the lip and fine face above

6. Sunni Daze (6b)
The right-hand side of the pillar direct finishing as for Comical Ali

7. Comical Ali E1 5a ★★
The crackline on the right with very small wires protecting the start