Saddam's Wall


A good, recently redeveloped wall. North-facing but protected from the wind and with easy access for an evening or joint visit with another crack. Al Tikrit is a classic, south-facing wall with a handfull of good little routes with a tremendous outlook


From the parking in Mewslade - please make payment in honesty box - follow the coast path through the farm and a couple of gates before striking down via a vague seaward path to a gate atop a long gully leading down to the sea. Go through this and over the stile and continuing down the gully for a short way (100m) before breaking out left, facing out, into a subsidiary gully where the buttress can be found.

1. Chemical Ali (4+) the left edge of the wall reaching a shared belay from the left

2. Barzan Lost his Head (6a) ★ the crack and wall left of the overgrown groove

3. Wam Bam Thank You Saddam E4 6a ★ the groove to the hole moving slightly right via a wall and finishing crack

4. Al Tikrit (6b+) ★★★ the shallow groove and fine wall to the right. A little classic

5. A Fragile Peace E3 5c ★★ perfect rock via an undercut bulge complete with jug on the lip and fine face above

6. Sunni Daze (6b) ★ the right-hand side of the pillar direct finishing as for Comical Ali

7. Comical Ali E1 5a ★★ the crackline on the right with very small wires protecting the start