Another surprising find with a wonderful southerly outlook and a number of excellent, though in most case unfortunately short, routes on excellent rock. The climbing is fingery and technical lower down and in most cases eases off above. The crag dries very quickly, takes very little seepage and has relative ease of access.
From the parking in Mewslade - please make payment in honesty box - follow the coast path through the farm and a couple of gates before striking down via a vague seaward path to a gate atop a long gully leading down to the sea. Go through this and over the stile and continuing down the gully to the sandy beach. Walk left along the obvious, but in places vague, path past the two protruding buttresses Of the First and Second Sister until the long flat wall can be seen up and to the left.
The first routes are on a short wall up and to the left. An ideal winter venue.
1. Pot Boiler (4)
pleasant climbing to a belay under the prow. Well bolted
2. Hot off the Press (5)
worthwhile to the right. Well bolted
3. Page Turner (5) ★
The left-hand of two on the central section of wall.
4. Final Draft (5) ★
The excellent right-hand line
5. Bodice Ripper (5)
excellent jug pulling though shorter
6. Schmills and Boon (6b)
The tiered overlap involves a few tugs.
1. Scooby Do (4)
3. Two Tokes on the Bong (5)
4. La Cha Cha (5+)
1. Eat My Shorts (5)
Steady climbing on the fringe of the crag.
2. Rikes Raggy (6a)
A bit more interest to the same belay just right.
3. Howdy Partner (6a+) ★
A steep start to a belay over the overhang.
4. They Killed Kenny (6a+)
The brown crackline moving left to a shard belay above the roof.
5. Suffering Succotash (6b) ★
A longer route heading for a slim groove high up. Tricky past second bolt.
6. Ridiculous is the Burden of Genius (6b+) ★
Steady to the overlap and tougher above. Move left and up to a shared belay.
7. The Wettest April Since Records Began E3 5c
Cracks in the lower wall lead to a bulge and groove high up.
8. What’s up Doc (6c)
A series of off-balance side pulls lead to an easing at the next to last bolt.
9. Ay, Caramba (6c+) ★
Fingery moves up the wall lead to a problematic entry into a slim groove.
10. Sisterly Luv E5 6a
The bald wall, pegs since removed leads up and then into a rightwards crackline
11. The Beverly Sisters E3 5c
Climb up into a niche, bold, and then go leftwards into the same crack as Sisterly Luv.
12. Heavens to Murgatroyd (6c+) ★
Bouldery moves onto the thin wall lead to a slab the belay is above the overlap.
13. It Stinks (6c) ★
A desperate series of moves leads onto the easier but bald wall above. Belay above the overhang.
14. In Between Sisters E4 6a
The wall just right, bold, then move right and up via the overhang.
15. Its Hero Time (6a)
The right fringe of the wall moving leftwards to a shared belay above the overhang..