The impressive upper tier has some really tough routes coupled with a number of lower grade climbs that should satisfy the masses. Relatively easy access after a pleasant walk along the cliff tops from the Mewslade car park.
Follow the cliff top path eastwards from Mewlsade car park down through the fields to and a ‘kissing’ gate to the cliff top path proper. Follow this above Sadam’s Wall and the Second Sister to another gate. One hundred meters after this gate a track leads down the broad grassy gully and the crag will be seen to you right.
There is a huge nest on the crag which is occasionally occupied by a Raven. If so a restriction may be imposed. Please look for notices or view the BMC RAD before climbing there in the spring.
1. Chilean Flame Thrower (7b+) ★★
Bouldery moves from almost at the top of the ramp gain easier climbing to the belay.
2. World in Action (7b+) ★★
Again, hard moves at the start of the route gains easier climbing after a mid-height rest.
3. Popped In, Souled Out (7b) ★★
The second line of bolts left of the cave with a good rest after the crux.
4. Leftism (7a+)
The line of hangers through the bulges left of the nest.
5. French Undressing (7a) ★
Passes the right-hand side of the huge nest with a steep finale.
6. Twilight World (6c) ★★
A fine pitch climbing through the bulges to an easier-angled wall above.
7. Southeast Wall (6a+) ★★★
Great steep climbing on good holds via a tricky lower wall and jug-filled finale.
8. Fiesta (6b) ★★
Follow a line of holds to the right to the same belay.
9. Bob’s Your Uncle (6c)
The rightward-slanting crack gained via a bulge.
10. Fanny’s Your Aunt (6a) ★
Crosses the gash to a steep wall on good holds.
11. Sister Mary’s Blessed Finger (6a) ★★
A good pitch with an exposed upper wall.
12. The Enema Affair (5+) ★
The headwall to the right after a shared start.