Encore Sector

The centrepiece of the quarry providing some of the best wall pitches on sandstone.

1. Loctite (7b) ★ desperate fingery climbing on the edges low down. No coming in from the side.

2. Land of the Dinosaurs E3 5c ★ almost situ-gear crack but a Friend 2 is useful. Harder than it looks and a notable cleaning achievement in its day.

3. Momentary Lapse of Reason 7b+ ★★ superb sustained climbing of the typically fingery nature sandstone lends itself to. Finish at the last BR, not the BB.

4. Rattle Those Tusks E3 5c ★ more classic-style crack climbing. Some nuts and Friends needed.

5. Mad at the Sun (7c) ★★★ the hardest route on sandstone to date. And look at the date! Fingery, sustained and technical.

6. Unnamed (6c) ★ shallow groove and short headwall above start of 'Sun'.

7. Bear Running, Salmon Cunning (7a) ★★ right-hand side of arete to slab. Difficult finish on the headwall.

8. Anything You Can Do (7b) ★★ excellent open wall climbing. A blind and fingery crux with an airy headwall above.

9. Encore Magnifique (7b+) ★★★ the sandstone classic of its grade. Sustained more than technical and maybe only 7b. But you can keep it at 7b+ for now.

10. Another Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) ★★ typical of the wall: steep and fingery but with an unusual crossover crux. Now started direct.