Raven Tor Left

Raven Tor left side

1. Sheikh, Rattle and Roll (7a+) wet start following resin bolts and close to the ivy on the upper wall

2. Koran Super Direct (7a) difficult lower wall leads to a tree. Awkward climbing to a break, hard clip, before moving left and up good rock to the belay.

3. Austin Powers (7a+) right of KSD is a wet left leaning crack, this is the start to the debolted Ayatollah (7a). R again is a cleaner wall. Climb the wall with difficulty to a break then move left to gain a flake system. Follow this to a break then make awkward moves over a bulge to reach the belay. (Barely Decent, 7b+, climbs the wall L of Full Monty before moving L to join Austin Powers.)

4. The Full Monty (7c+) ★★★ R of Austin Powers the ledge ends at an old tree stump. Scratch your way up the faint groove behind the stump (various methods possible) to reach good holds in a break. Sustained climbing up, right then back left leads to a large break. The awkward bulging wall above leads to a large flake. Move R then ever steeper climbing above (belay of Indceent Exposure, 7c ★★★) leads through a bulge to the belay. (Balls Out 7c, avoids the move R then L above the first break by a hard pull whilst Prowess, 8a ★★ follows Full Monty to the large flake then steps R and climbs In and Out of Body Experience to the roof before attacking it directly with difficulty. Half Decent, 7c, follows An In and Out of Body Experience to just before the rock over but then climbs direct into Full Monty finishing at the Indecent belay.)

5. Indecent Hubris (7b+) ★ Start as for Full Monty to the first break. Pull up to the overlap and make the first hard move of Balls Out before traversing L to gain a large hollow block. Awkward climbing above leads to a break. Continue direct through a slight bulge to the belay.

6. An In and Out of Body Experience (8a) ★★★ Start as for the Full Monty but almost immediately move R and up past an overlap to the break. Pull up and R to a side pull then make the famous rock over move to gain better holds. Steep moves lead to jugs in the break and a welcome rest. Step L and pull through the bulge with difficulty to before moving R to some undercuts. From here steep pulls lead to a small ledge (belay of Body Machine 7c+). Step L and attack the leaning wall above up to a roof, pull L with difficulty over the LH end of the roof to join the last few moves of the Full Monty. (Body Builder, 8a+ follows the original route to the rest at the break before moving R and pulling through the bulging wall above with difficulty to join the parent route at the undercuts.)

7. The Prow 8a ★★★ As for an In and Out of Body Experience to the overlap then traverse R to jugs. Awkward moves up to and past an obvious flake lead to a hole in the break, move R then attack the bulging wall above via a layback flake followed by a hard pull to gain a hanging groove, bridging rest here. The overhanging groove above is followed to the roof where difficult moves lead to good holds and a belay on the R. Care with rope drag required.

8. The Crucifiction 8a ★★★ Follow The Prow to the hanging groove rest then step R over an overlap and climb the pumpy wall above before hard moves L gain better holds and the belay. (Ibuprofix 7c+ ★★★ climbs The Full Monty to the large break then steps R into Body Machine and follows this to it’s belay. Climb the groove above as for The Prow before moving R at the roof to join The Crucifiction, finish up this.)

9. Proud Whore (7c+) ★★★ Follow The Prow to the top of the layback flake, then make hard moves up and R to gain a hanging groove. Follow this to a belay on a ledge at the top of the crag. (The Whore of Babylon, 8a, gained the first break of The Prow direct via a technical wall and an aided start of what is now Hubble. Rarely repeated.)

10. Brazen Strumpet (8a) ★★ Follow The Prow to the end of the first traverse then pull up and R up the thin wall to gain the large break. Step R then make hard moves up and slightly L to join Proud Whore at a good hold, swing R and over the small overhang to finish on a ledge at the top of the crag.

11. Rage 8b ★★★ Climb Revelations but continue up The Prow to the hole in the break. A thin seam is followed with difficulty to a break, hard moves up and L lead to the belay of Body Machine. (Anger Management, 8a+, climbs Body Machine until just after the rock over move then moves R into The Prow to join Rage at the thin seam. Cross’n’Angry, 8a+ climbs Anger Management but continues up Crucifiction whilst Rage Into Crucifiction, 8b, is self explanatory.)

12. Mecca Extension (8b+) ★★★ From the Mecca belay climb the black wall to undercuts. Move right with difficulty to a right facing flake. Up this, hard, to better holds and the belay. Originally climbed without kneepads at 8c.

13. The Hajj (8c) ★★ The lefthand finish to Mecca is essentially a hard boulder problem (font 7C)

14. Kaabah (8c) ★★★ At the top of the groove of Mecca continue direct to a good hold. There are two methods to gain the flake of Mecca Extension, either direct (the original unrepeated method, 8c+) or by stepping left into Mecca Extension and finishing as for that route (8c)