River Sector

Topo of the River Section of the Cornice

1. That Was the River (7b+) ★★
A superb pumpy climbing following the rightwards line of undercut flakes. Rapid City (8a) goes straight up.
F.A. Chris Hamper 1988

2. Streamline (7c+) ★
An eliminate with desperate start.
F.A. Mike Lea 1994

2a. Tributary (8a+)
Climbs This is the Sea to the second bolt then launhes out leftwards up into the finish of Rapid City.
F.A. Hayden Jones 2016

3. This is the Sea (7c+) ★
Another series of desperate moves onto a shallow edge.
Mark Pretty 1988

4. Old Man River (7b) ★★
Superb route with fingery moves and exiting leftwards. The obvious continuation finish is Keep on Rollin’ (7b+).
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986. Keep on Rollin’ Mark Pretty 1995

Dirty Old Man (7c) ★★
Links the start of Old Man River with the next route.
Mark Pretty 2010

5. The Naive and Sentimental Lover (7c) ★★
Climbs up over the small roof to gain a hole then move out L and up the wall above. A fine but fingery wall climb and harder since hold loss.
Mark Pretty 1986

6. Up the River Without a Paddle (7a) ★★
Follows Naive and Sentimental to the hole then move R and follow the bolts and holds up and rightwards. Great climbing.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1984

7. Snails of the Riverbank (7b) ★★
Another fine climb with two hard overlaps and a fingery wall.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986. Dt start added by Ian Dunn in 1997

8. The Spiders from Mars (6b+)
An old route now cleaned, bolted and free climbed.
F.A. Neil Molnar 1983

9. The Monday Club (7a)
The two overlaps and a fine clean headwall.
F.A. Chris Hardy 1989

10. Trampled Underfoot (6c+) ★
Better right-hand variant finishing via thin crack.
F.A. Chris Hardy 1989

11. Gardener’s Question Time (7a)
Hard wall to overlap, then easier.
F.A. Seb Grieve 1994

12. Rue Morgue E3 5c ★
Defunct traditional route first climbed in 1979 by Chris Jackson. Now superseded by various sport routes.
F.A. Chris Jackson 1979

13. After the Goldfish (7b) ★
Desperate moves and a long reach through the overlap.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986

14. Crowd Control (7c) ★
Steady to roof, then a sea of roundedness above. F.A. Keith Sharples 1989

15. Une Crime Passionnel (6c+) ★★★
One of the best of the grade in the Peak. Easy climbing up to the first bolt then continue via a smooth looking wall which leads to the left-facing groove and crack on the upper half.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1982

Blurred Lines (7c) ★ Just R of Crime Passionel is a vague groove. Follow this to and over the roof to flat jugs. Move 1m L, mantle up and head leftwards to the final bolt of Une Crime Passionel.
Jamie Sparkes 2021

Blurred Lines RH (7b?) ★★
Follow Blurred Lines to the flat jugs above the roof then pull straight up via a small undercut to a double bolt belay above. Now harder since loss of holds.
Jamie Sparkes 2021

16. Fey (6b+) ★★
Climbs up via an niche down low up into the R facing groove at the top. An old neglected trad route, retro-bolted in 2021.
F.A. Jerry Frost 1980

17. War Memorial (6c) ★
Climbs the wall right of of Fey and gains the same finishing groove from the right.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983

18. Succubus (7b+) ★★
Takes the wall R of War Memorial up to and through the bulge to gain the arete above. A long sling is often used on the first bolt above the bulge to make clipping easier. Tough.
F.A. Seb Grieve 1994

19. Shazam E4 6a ★
Climbs the obvious thin crack, bulge and and hanging groove. The last trad route on The Cornice?
F.A. Jerry Moffatt 1982

20. Martial Music (7a+) ★★
Climbs the wall R of Shazam to below the roof. Move right before pulling over and up to the belay.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983

21. Clarion Call (7a) ★★★
A vision of the future and a key moment in the development of UK sport climbing this was one of the very first sport routes. Climbed in 1983 and using an outrageous 5 bolts the provocatively named route caused uproar amongst the British trad fraternity at the time. A year later the route was climbed bolt free at E6. Slowly the bolts were all replaced whilst The Cornice was transformed into one of the most important sport climbing venues in the country. The Clarion Call has now been well and truly answered.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983