Clarion Call Sector

The Cornice Clarion Call topo

The first few routes are just off of the topo but easily located. On the upper part of the crag is a huge shield of rock bounded by two crack lines. The lefthand one goes up leftwards and is taken by Une Crime Passionnel. The righthand one goes rightwards and is taken by by Fey and War Memorial. The Blurred Lines routes climb the wall and bulge between these two.

Une Crime Passionnel (6c+) ★★★
One of the best of the grade in the Peak. This is just a few metres left of War Memorial. It climbs the smooth wall to the obvious left-facing groove line through the bulge above. Originally climbed as a ’trad’ route with a naughty drilled golo for protection.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1982

Blurred Lines (7c) Just R of Crime Passionel is a vague groove. Follow this to and over the roof to flat jugs. Move 1m L, mantle up and head leftwards to the final bolt of Une Crime Passionel.
Jamie Sparkes 2021

Blurred Lines RH (7b?) ★★
Follow Blurred Lines to the flat jugs above the roof then pull straight up via a small undercut to a double bolt belay above. Now harder since loss of holds.
Jamie Sparkes 2021

Fey (6b+)
Climbs the wall just left of War Memorial and up into right facing, undercut flake crack above.
F.A. Bob Conway and Chris Jackson 1979 with 1pt of aid. F.F.A. Jerry Frost 1980

1. War Memorial (6c)
Climb the wall and move left into the flake crack of Fey and finish up this.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983

2. Succubus (7b+) ★★
Takes the wall R of War Memorial up to and through the bulge to gain the arête above. A long sling is often used on the first bolt above the bulge to make clipping easier. Tough.
F.A. Seb Grieve 1994

Shazam E4 6a
Climbs the obvious thin crack, bulge and and hanging groove. The last trad route on The Cornice?
F.A. Jerry Moffatt 1982

3. Martial Music (7a+) ★★
Takes the technical wall R of Shazam to below the roof. Move right before pulling over and up to the belay.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983

4. Clarion Call (7a) ★★★
Classic and perhaps the UK’s first sport route. Technical start and sustained above.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1983

5. The Poppy Fields (7b+)
A suprisingly good eliminate squeezed onto the rock between the two classics.
F.A. Simon Lee 2004

6. Armistice Day (7a) ★★★
Sustained throughout with crux through obvious overlap.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1984

7. Who’s Line is it Anyway (7a+) ★★★
Another fine sustained pitch with hard moves direct at 2nd BR and 4th.
F.A. Jon de Montjoye 1989

8. Big Store E5 6b ★★
Still trad. Good climbing via arched groove and a span left.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1984

9. The Egyptian Bizarre (7a+)
A direct and fully bolted direct finish to Big Store.
F.A. Jon de Montjoye 1989

10. Big Zipper (7a+) ★★
Line to right. Fingery rightwards exit through bulge.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986

11. Beelzebub (7b+)
The direct finish to Big Zipper consists of a short powerful boulder problem. Can also been climbed by starting up Bored for increased difficutly. F.A. Seb Grieve 1996

12. Bored of the Lies (7b+) ★★
An excellent wall pitch. Now usually finished up Big Zipper though the original and harder finish traversed right at lower level before going up.
Mark Pretty 1986

13. Ouijaboard (8a) ★★
Harder and more fingery wall to right. Harder the higher you get.
F.A. Dave Cross 1987

14. Four Door Dostoyevsky (8a+) ★★
The shallow curving groove with desperate technicalities above break. Sharp.
F.A. Sean Myles 1989

15. Powerplant (8a) ★★★ The classic of its grade in the Dale. The difficulties are centred around the overlap. Powerpant (8a) connects Powerplant with Devonshire Arms from just the first crux on the former.
F.A. Chris Plant 1988

In the great British tradition of horizontal climbing a traverse of this wall has been climbed:

Tour de France (7a)
Climb up Fey to the base of the groove then traverse right to the lower off on Egyptian Bizarre. An ascent is unlikely to endear you to other climbers at the crag.