Cosmopolitan Sector

The Cornice Cosmopolitan sector topo

These routes start where the main tourist track branches off from the cliff edge and down to the river.

1. Snatch (8b) ★★★
Starts up R’n’P but breaks out right above the bulge.
F.A. Kristian Clemmow 2003

2. Barney Ragin’ (8b+) ★★
Starts up R’n’P but goes R through the bulge via a slot and continues up to join and finish up Love Amongst the Butterflies
F.A. James McHaffie 2010

3. Love Amongst the Butterflies (8b) ★★★
F.A. Seb Grieve 1996

4. Asia Shadow Player (8b) ★★
F.A. Steve McClure 1997

5. Somehow Super (8c) ★★
A very thin McClure test piece that’s rarely (if ever) repeated. F.A. Steve McClure 2005

6. Unleashing Direct (8a) ★★
Links Somehow Super into Unleashing.
F.A. Haydn Jones 2018

7. Unleashing the Wild Physique (8a) ★★★
A brilliant technical exercise taking a sweeping line up and leftwards. Small holds, crimp, crimp.
F.A. Mark Pretty 1986

8. Cosmopolitan (7b+) ★★★
An old classic with fine climbing and a bold exit.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1985

9. Cordless Madness (7c) ★★
The hideously thin direct finish to Cosmopolitan.
F.A. Nigel Slater 1989

10. Mandy (7b+)
A powerful series of moves to a jug and easing above.
F.A. Mark Pretty 1986

11. Flowers in the Dirt (7b)
Direct fingery line, bold in its central section and possibly a good bit harder since loss of holds.
F.A. Keith Sharples 1989

Right hand end

The last few sport routes on The Cornice are not marked on the topo but are easily located by the descriptions below. The most prominent feature here is the 10m hanging corner of Gamman which starts a few metres above the ground.

The Third Order (7b)
The first route right of Flowers. Climbs up to a niche followed by an ‘upturned flake’ and thin crack which is followed to the top.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1985

Loco (7b+)
This starts below a prominent hole at 3 or 4 metres just below a bulge. Climb up through the bulge and the easier wall above.
F.A. Gary Gibson 2002

To Pumpy for Grumpy (7b+)
Just right of Loco climbing through a bulging section at the same height. Powerful.
F.A. Nigel Slater 1989

Further Adventures in Greendale (6c or 7a)
A colourful and steep start just left of the obvious right facing corner of Gamman. At the top you can either climb direct as the original route did (7a), or avoid the difficulties with a minor detour out left (6c).
F.A. Keith Sharples 1989

Old Man’s Adventures (7a)
Climb the obvious right facing corner just R of Further Adventures… At the top go straight up as for the direct version of Further Adventures….

Gamman (6a+)
The easiest sport route on the crag and well worth doing. Climb the corner as for Old Man’s Adventures but at the top move right on undercuts into The Corniceman and finish up that.
F.A. Jammie Sparks?? 2020. The corner was first climbed as part of the trad route Old Man’s Gambit (HVS 5c) in 1976. This route escaped out left from the top of the corner.

The Corniceman (7a+) ★★
The last sport route on The Cornice climbs the wall 3m right of Gamman via a thin flake. Fine and varied climbing with a powerful start and technical higher up.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986