1. Big Zipper (7a+) ★★
Find the best line up the lower wall to a fingery rightwards exit through bulge.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1986
2. Beelzebub (7b+)
The direct finish to Bored of the Lies consists of a short powerful boulder problem.
F.A. Seb Grieve 1996
3. Bored of the Lies (7b+) ★★
An excellent wall pitch. Now usually finished up Big Zipper though the original and harder finish traversed right at lower level before going up.
F.A. Mark Pretty 1986
4. Ouijaboard (8a) ★★
The harder and more fingery wall to right. Gets harder the higher you get.
F.A. Dave Cross 1987
5. Four Door Dostoyevsky (8a+) ★★
Climb the shallow curving groove with desperate technicalities above break. Sharp.
F.A. Sean Myles 1989
6. Powerplant (8a) ★★★
The classic of its grade in the Dale. The main difficulties are centred around the overlap which is easier with kneepads. Powerpant (8a) connects Powerplant with Devonshire Arms from just the first crux on the former.
F.A. Chris Plant 1988
7. Devonshire Arms (8a+) ★★★
The even more powerful wall to the right. Crimps and pinches provide the sequence.
F.A. Craig Devonshire 1997
8. K3 (8a+) ★★★
An undercutting nightmare leftwards through bulge and finally up.
F.A. Seb Grieve 1994
Start up K3 but when you get to the ‘pancake’ undercuts step left into Devonshire Arms then left again into Powerplant above the crux, finish up this.
F.A. Kristian Clemmow 2011
Extends K5 from Powerplant across Fourdoor to the belay of Bored.
F.A. Steve McClure 2011
9. 42 (8b+) ★★★
A more direct line than K3 after flat flake. Hardest route hereabouts.
F.A. John Hart 1995
10. 32 (8b+) ★★
The bulges to the right to join R’n’P.
F.A. Kristian Clemmow 2007
The Anatomy Act (8b+) ★★
Climb 32 to it’s junction with R’n’P then climb straight up the wall to join and finish up Snatch.
F.A. Alex Barrows 2018
11. R’n’P (8a+) ★★★
Mean. More undercuts to the right gain the upper wall at a scoop. Easier above?
F.A. John Hart 1990
12. Snatch (8b) ★★★
Start up R’n’P but break out right above the bulge.
F.A. Kristian Clemmow 2003
13. Barney Ragin’ (8b+) ★★
Start up R’n’P but go right through the bulge via a slot and then continue up to join and finish up Love Amongst the Butterflies.
F.A. James McHaffie 2010