Stone Wings Cliff
A superb wall, overhanging in its left half with sustained routes to match, and easier angled to the right with some delicate face routes.
Stone Wings left
1. Crime Slunk Scene (7b) ★★
Hard climbing through the roof crack succombs to a mix kneebars, toehooks and thuggery.
2. Liassic Lark (6c+) ★
A jamming crack with a tough bulge. Can be greasy early in season.
3. In Search of Bedrock (7a) ★
The natural continuation via groove system. Sustained.
4. Help, Help Me Rhondda (7c) ★
A desperate, fingery sequence though short.
Wilma!!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks (7c) ★
A link up of Help, Help Me Rhondda and In Search of Bedrock crossing Liassic Lark after Rhondda’s main bulge.
5. The Dai Vinci Coed (7c) ★★
Climb up Rhondda to a jug, move right
6. Methuselah (8a) ★★★
A link up of Dai Vinci into Masada with a short but good bit of independent climbing. Start up Dai Vinci Coed. Move right into This God.. and follow a sloper rail into Masada.
7. This God is Mine (7b+) ★★★
Classic. Sustained and fingery via the obvious thin crackline.
8. Masada (8a+) ★★★
A desperate face route, the hardest in the area. The line goes directly up to the overlap without using the crack.
9. Stone Wings (E5 6a) ★★
The obvious jamming crack that splits the crag gives superb, traditional climbing.
10. The Uninvited Guest (7b) ★★
A short but very technical sequence to gain a groove. A friend 3 is needed for the crack.
11. Mr. T (8a+) ★★
Follow a thin seam across Stone Wings and into Masada at two jugs. Move left and up, across This God.. to the pod on Dai Vinci and finish up that route.
12. Super Size Me (7c+) ★★
Follow Staple Diet past its big flake then move left on good crimps into a groove. A rock up, more crimps and a hard-to-read section lead to the ledge.
13. Staple Diet (7b) ★★★
A superb overhanging groove and crack. Sustained, not over-technical but a big pump.
Stone Wings right
14. Tragic Moustache (7a) ★★
A hard start and finish with a fine face in between.
15. Five O’Clock Shadow (6c+) ★★
Superb face climbing. Very technical in middle. Climb up to a large flake and ramp, up the wall to finish over the roof above. The right-hand start provides an easier alternative: Dolphin Shadow (6c) ★.
16. Magic Touch (6b) ★
An excellent diagonal face climb.
17. Pelagic Mush (6a+) ★
A pleasantly sustained easier route. The left-hand start is is Dolphin Gas (6b) ★.
18. Sideburn (6b)
A short hard section that’s easier with a long reach.
19. Spear the Bearded Clam (6b)
The hardest part is in the lower half.
20. Slurp the Savoury Oyster (5+)
The furthest right and easiest line on the cliff.