Witches Cave

Witches Cave left

1. Fatman And Nob In (3+)
Climb the wall right of the corner without using the corner.

2. Gay Batman (5)
The second line of bolts up the steep wall to the same belay as Fatman.

3. Robin’s Yoghurt Supper (5)
Climbs the wall left of the stepped corner to the belay of the next route.

4. Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra (5+) ★★
The corner moving right below the final roof.

5. Sorcerer’s Assistant (6a+)
Climb over the nose through the roofs just right of the corner.

6. Magic Circle (6a+)
Climb the roofs right again. Can be slippery in high humidity.

7. Smoke and Mirrors (6b) ★★
Good steep climbing moving left around the hanging arête.

8. Great Expectorations (6b) ★★
Climb through several roofs 3m right of Smoke and Mirrors finishing up a groove.

9. Phlegmatic Solution (6c)
More roof climbing leads into a groove. Swing out right from this and up the tricky headwall.

10. Evil Ways (7b)
A technical roof climb through the left side of the main roof and up the ‘slightly slabby’ wall above.

11. Evil K’nee Full (7a+) ★★★
The roof right again is breached via a prominent jug on the lip. Possible rests include a kneebar and a head jam. Finish through the v-groove in the upper roof. An awesome route that’s high in the grade.

Witches Cave right

Project 1
The middle of the roof is still unclimbed, marked by a line of staples.

Project 2
A line of bolt studs and pegs at the right end of the roof mark another unclimbed line.

12. White Witch (E5 6b)
A trad extension to the next route completing the full traverse above the cave and finishing up Evil K’nee Full. The original pegs protecting the route have corroded away.

13. Willie the Pimp (6c+) ★★
Start beneath a corner to the right of the main roof. A hard start leads to a crack leading leftwards to above the roof. Traverse left, up to a niche and continue leftwards to a belay below the upper roof.

14. Thin Lizzy (6c+) ★★
Follow the previous route but head up towards the hanging groove that breaches the upper roofs. Finish up this taking care with the rock.

15. Wrasse Wipe (6c)
Follow the previous Thin Lizzie but climb up the groove. So named because, ‘its often got a damp bottom’.

16. Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter (6b+)
Climb through the lower overhang on very sharp, spikey, wave washed holds and continue up to the same lower off as Wrasse Wipe.

17. Didymo Clogs Your Tackle (6b)
More sharpness and a long reach are required to reach the first good hold.

18. Fishermen Pump Their Rods (6a+)
More of the same.

19. Wrasse Bandit (6b+)
More spiky climbing through the lower bulges.

20. Sore Wrasse (6c)
Or, more likely, sore fingers. Harder climbing on similarly sharp holds.

21. Wrassetafarian (6b+)
The next line is easier than it looks.

22. Little Wrasse Cull (6a)
The final route on the undercut, spikey wall has a hard start up past a thread.

The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist (5+)
Not marked on the topo but this is located about 10 metres right of the previous route, starting above the lowest of the weed covered steps.