A long section of cliff seemed with grooves and overhangs. The variety of climbing here is extensive. The central section of cliff can suffer from seepage into mid June.
The first 5 routes start from a grassy ledge known as Tufa Terrace. This is gained either by scrambling down a grassy scoop by a gorse bush from the top or scramblikng up the ramp between Stone Wings Cliff and Dunraven Cliff. There’s also the approach route PCB.
1. Tufa King Hard (6c+)
What was an alternative start to Tufa Joy now has its own finish and belay.
2. Tufa Joy (7a)
A little dusty. A hard start leads ot a powerful finish going rightwards.
3. Tufa at the Top (7a) ★★
A gem of a route taking the ‘sexual’ Tufa. Harder than it looks.
4. It’s Tufa at the Bottom (7a+) ★
Appropriately named. Fingery, powerful and sustained.
5. Tufa Tennis (6b+) ★
A pleasant companion route, again deceiving.
6. PCB (5+)
An access pitch to Tufa Terrace on left-hand side of face.
7. Croeso Y Gymru (6b+) ★
Pleasant climbing with long reach at top.
8. The World-v-Gibson (7a) ★★
A superb pitch. A technical crux low down and sustained above.
9. Straining At The Leash (7b) ★
Hard and reachy at the crux. Packs a punch.
10. Leave it to The Dogs (7a+) ★★
Magnificent sustained climbing via groove and arête. Snappy crux.
11. There’s Life in the Old Dog Yet (6c+) ★★
Features a short, sharp crux in fine position.
12. Plus Ca Change (7b) ★
Climbs the centre of wall via prominent flake. Long reach/desperate crux.
13. Hanging by a Thread (6c) ★★★
The classic of its grade in South-East Wales. Superb, sustained wall climbing.
14. Edgemoor (7b+) ★
Short, hard and fingery crux with a bolt-on hold.
15. Edge-Hog (7b+) ★★★
A superb arête and powerful bulge. Harder for short. Fine positions.
16. Grow-Up! (7b+) ★★
A mega route through centre of bulges and roofs. Complicated lineage.
17. Pasty = Man Boobs (4)
An easy access pitch up the slabs to The Gantry.
18. Young, Gifted and Beige (4)
The right-hand easy access pitch to The Gantry.
The Gantry is the area over to the right bounded by a big roof on it’s left-hand side. Approach from the top of the crag and walk down. You can also use either of the previous access pitches if coming from below. It catches the afternoon sun and is rarely greasy. It’s also the best spot to climb here during the winter too.
1. The Overlook (7b+) ★
A very powerful series of heel-hooks and rotations. Tape your hands!
2. Anchors Away (6b+) ★
A tricky bulge. Good positions.
3. Cast Adrift (6c) ★
A technical wall on dinks.
4. Broken on the Rocks (6b)
A short pleasant wall.
5. Marooned (6a+)
Features a single hard move.