South & Back Wall

South Wall

Although short, this wall provides three difficult routes requiring an abundance of both power and finesse combined. Can be damp in humid weather.

1. Bristol Beat (7a+) short but powerful climbing in its length. Keep going rightwards to the belay.

2. Screaming Neutrino's (7b+) ★ an even more powerful sequence up the shallow pumping groove. Yet to be rebolted.

3. It's a Black World (7a) ★ finesse at last. The clean black wall provides the intricate route of the wall. Black is certainly beautiful.

4. Howling Hadrons (6b+) ★ right-hand side of wall with technical start and juggy finale.

The Back Wall

Perhaps, in many ways, this is the centrepiece of the quarry. Unfortunately, it does suffer from a large amount of seepage in the spring months. Once dry, it provides a fine collection of pitches on generally immaculate compact rock. The type of climbing is unique to the area. All of the routes need re-bolting.

1. The Quartz Bicycle (6c+) undercut flake, now gone. Needs rebolting and cleaning.

2. You Never can Tell (7a) ★ technical, fingery and blind at the top. Excellent introduction to the wall.

3. Palm Springs (7a+) ★★ the left-hand line of two superb face climbs. Sustained more than technical.

4. A Million Destinies (7a+) ★★ harder and even better than its left-hand twin. 'Tweeky' edge climbing at its best.

5. Stay Hungry E5 6a the crack. Dirty and needs bolting.

6. Digitorum Brevis (7b) ★★ the route of the wall. Named after a one-finger-move at one thirds height. Unthinkable.