Character
As predicted this ultimate roadside crag is now developing into a premier sports-climbing venue. It relative ease of access, west-facing nature, quick drying time and abundance of middle to low grade sport routes has created a popular setting.
The routes range in height from 12m routes through to those requiring a 60m (sometimes 70m for convenience) rope on a variety of styles: steep vertical walls and grooves through to very slabby face climbing, an unusual feature for limestone.
Situation
This couldn’t be easier. The crag overlooks the southbound carriageway of the main A470 Cardiff to Merthyr Tydfil road at the roundabout between Tongwynlais and Taffs Well. Once located parking is obvious below the crag.
Layout
The sport route lie at the right-hand side of the crag on some lower walls, obvious by the nature and the surrounding slabs.
Aspect
As previously mentioned the crag faces west gets the sun from midday onwards and dries quickly. It does take seepage after longer spells of rain and in the winter months.