Pant Quarry Topo

The Main Wall

The first routes start from the right-hand side of a terrace below the wall. This can be gained via a short gully and fixed rope. The first route starts atop another subsidiary pillar - it is advisable not to do this route whilst other people are climbing routes from the right-hand side of the terrace.

1. I Can, I Can’t (6b+) ★ the steep jug-filled wall with flakes and pockets

2. Totally Invalid (6c) ★ first route via gold BRs from right-hand of main terrace - just two or three hard moves

3. Angela’s Ashes (6c) ★★ Fine wall climbing with hard moves through a small overlap. Excellent face climbing above

4. Ponty Pandy (6c+) ★★ next line with a hard start and much easier climbing above. Again excellent

5. Llandfill-A-Gogoch (7b) ★★ A hard wall route identified by a thread runner. Very fingery

6. Project

7. Project

8. Time to Dai (7b+) ★★ direct above tree by sustained climbing to a difficult finish on rounded holds

9. Dai Laughing (8a) ★★★ right-hand of a pair of superb routes on central section of wall. Sustained and hard. 60m rope required

10. Maesteg-a-Saurus (8a) ★★★ left-hand line rejoining Dai laughing at half height

11. Total Pants (7a+) ★★ a superb sustained test-piece straight up the wall above the initial ramp/flake. Low in grade with two or three long reaches

12. Panteon Shot (7a) ★★ shallow groove to ledge system, difficult wall and superb groove above. A classic

13. Unnamed (7a+) ★ groove just left again after start of Panteon Shot (finishes at first double BB)

14. Unnamed (8a+) ★ desperate direct start via rounded edges. Starts left of initial BRs

15. Welsh Fargo (7c+) ★★★ the classic of the wall taking the very slim crack system

Thieving Little Scrote (7c+) ★★★ the upper wall and huge flake left of Welsh Fargo

16. Caught Mid Shot (6c+) ★ poor flake line with projects above

17. Unnamed (7b+) ★★ desperately fingery lower wall. Three hard crimpy sections

18. Herr Helmutt Schmutt (6b) ★ warm up starting via flake to blue lower-off

19. Helmet Cheese (7a) ★★ a long route taking a vague rib and overlap low down. The route continues to the second BB

20. Pinch the Helmet (6b+) ★ angled flake to ledge (6a) then rightward across wall to first BB of Helmet Cheese

21. Radical Re-entry (7a) ★★★ superb route via blunt rib and flake system obvious by sling on BR

22. Unnamed (7a) short undercut crackline to ledge with four projects above the large corner to the left is

23. Twisted to Fit (7a+) ★★ shallow groove to ledge, pillar above in two stages to large flake jug. Leftwards and up to finish via pillar.

Clampitt’s Corner E1 5a huge corner line provides a trad. route with a horrible start - can also be gained via the ledges above 22. BB at the top to lower-off

50 to the left of the main wall is an isolated slab containing a row of BRs. This has been christened Matt’s Slab (6b+) ★