Lorry Park topo

Lorry Park Quarry LH side

Lorry Park Quarry LH side

The routes are easily located by their relation to the more obvious crack lines. At the base of crag is an old bench in front of the crack line of Edge of Darkness (route 9). To the left of this is the thiner steeper crack of Supercrack (7) and further right the long stepped corner of On the Road. To the right of the bench is the open corner of Shattered Air (13) and further right the prominent crack line of Thunder Road (17). At the righthand end of the crag look for the short wide corner of Desolation Angels (22) as a landmark.

The first two routes have a shared start up the steep wall left of the arete of Wild Strawberries.

Give the Man a Rest (7a+) good climbing with long lock offs. Easier for the tall.

Muesli Berries (6c) takes the righthand fork.

1. Wild Strawberries (6c+) ★Left-hand arete of the corner of On the Road.

2. On the Road (6c) ★★★ the impressive stepped corner.

3. Ground Zero (7c+) ★★ the superb blank-looking wall right of the corner.

The hard and arguably unpleasant start of Ground Zero can be avoided by starting up either The Squealer, Squealer Zero (7c+), or On the Road On the Road to Ground Zero (7b) or 7b+ for the short, and couple of long slings useful.

4. The Squealer (7c) ★★ the next direct line originally joined from the right.

5. The Squealer Direct Finish (7c+) ★

6. The Squealer Super Direct (7c+) ★★ a pumpier variation that goes straight up from the brown jug.

Supergrass (7b+) ★ starts up Supercrack to the fourth bolt then break out left to finish up The Squealer.

7. Supercrack (7a) ★★★ the obvious finger crack.

8. Dark Matter (8a+) ★ is a hard direct start to Dark Energy with very bouldery crux.

8a. Dark Energy (8a) ★ climbs the crack Edge of Darkness using the bolts to the left of the crack. Then breaks out left from the third bolt to continue up the smooth wall.

10. Edge of Darkness (6b+) ★★ next crackline to the right can be jammed or laybacked.

11. Big Spider, Small Bath (7b+) ★ The thin crack just right is sustained, taxing, and has a worrying finish.

12. Good Time Emporium (7b) ★★ A hard start leads to a balancy groove and a reachy finish.

13. Shore Leave (7a/+) ★★the very shallow groove can be climbed direct or by using some big edges on the right. Stepping into Shattered Air is cheating though.

14. Shattered Air (6b) ★The sharp flake crack is now bolted and is now a popular route.

15. Deceptive (7b) ★ the two thin cracks are harder than they appear.

16. Confidence Trick (8a) ★ The blank wall and rib. Very bouldery moves!

17. Sleight of Hand (7c) hard face climbing and a short jamming crack.

18. Thunder Road (6c+) ★ the awkward crack does not succomb easily.

19. Sons of Anarchy (7c+) ★ a direct version of Hell's Angels with a hard crux on small crimps.

20. Hell's Angel (7b) ★ make hard moves off a flake to reach pockets and wall above.

21. Sample the Mantle (7b?) ★ starts with a hard undercut move below a vague groove. Lost a hold by the last bolt and is now harder.

22. Baron Samedi (7b+) the wall to the right with friable holds and risk of hitting a ledge too.

23. Desolation Angels (7a) ★★ starts up the short corner and takes a rising leftwards line. Originally a trad climb but can now be climbed using the bolts on the other routes. One sling may be useful.

24. Roguerunner (7a+, 7c) Follows Desolation Angels to gain the horizontal break which continues along to the ring bolts on Squealer's halfway ledge. Climbed in two pitches with a belay at the top of Shattered Air.

25. Princess of the Streets (7a) starts in the corner of Desolation Angels but breaks out onto the the right wall. A short route on good rock.

26. Game On (7a/+) ★ the centre of the short leaning wall.

27. Go Your Own Way (7b) ★ a more strenuous and continuous version of Game On.