Bend Tor topo

The routes are from left to right.

1. L'Esprit de l'Escalier (7a) ★ the first route right of the ivy climbs the steep wall via staple bolts.

2. Precariat (7a+) ★★ A fine route up that starts via a mono. Originally graded 6c!!

3. Red Shoes at the Drugstore (7a) ★★ a fine wall climb that finishes over the roof at the top of the crag. A long draw for the final bolt is useful.

4. Blue Valentine (7a+) ★★ take the fine wall starting at the tree

5. Dancing with Mr D original (E4 / 7a?) ★★ climbs the immaculate groove and pulls over roof L of the bolted line and finishes at the top of the crag. Currently some gear required for the top.

6. Dancing with Mr D direct (7a+) ★ from below the roof swing up and R following the bolts to a flat shelf on the lip. Finish with a long lock off to grab the belay.

The next two routes skirt either side of a huge detached shield of rock. How long this will last is anyone's guess.

7. Prospero's Buoux (6c+) ★ Start up Dancing with Mr D but follow the bolt line out right. Take a couple of extra draws as one of the new bolts is difficult to clip. Possibly some loose blocks on this now. Rebolted

8. Bad Liver Broken Heart (6c+) ★ From the ledge undercut up rightwards and to gain the wall. The finishing jug can be hard to spot.

9. I'll Shoot The Moon (6b) ★ The obvious groove can be gained directly or more athletically from the left.

10. The Piano Has Been Drinking (Not Me) (6c) Fingery climbing up the wall. Don't stray too far left onto to the loose rock.

11. Bend Aid (E4 6a) ★ either a trad route, a very run out sport route or perhaps a trad route that wants to be a sport route. Take your pick, currently there are 2 bolts.

12. Snails Ate My Lampshade (6b+) ★ another sparsely bolted route but can be lead with just the 3 bolts. As a trad route it's grade is E3 6a.

13. Fast Women (7a+) ★ climb the bulge to a break. Traverse right to a sidepull and use this to reach the headwall above.

14. I Should Coco (7a) Worthwhile. Recently rebolted

15. Slow Horses (7a+) ★ Steep climbing on big holds. Careful routefinding in the upper section required.

16. Unreliable Sources (7a) ★★ the final route climbs a bulge into a niche. High in the grade.