Bosco’s Bosco’s A new crag in the heart of Gower with very easy access and a host of sport routes and trad. routes. It lies 300m east of Minchin Hole in a very pleasant ‘gulch’. The cliff is tidally affected save for the cave area.
To reach the cliff follow the coast path eastwards from Southgate National Trust car park along the edge of the plateau until 100m after the cliff-top ‘chair’ (this approximately 800m beyond the car park). From here descent a small bluff and follow a diagonal path down the hillside to a prominent ‘cutout’ on the sea’s edge. At low tide you can walk easily around to the cliff’s base or at high tide it is possible to abseil in. If the tide cuts off access the only way back to the top is up the abseil descent rope: tide tables are essential for climbing here.
The sport routes done so far are as follows and described from left to right in the gulch:
1. Philandering Philpino (6c) ★ pleasant wall with technical and fingery moves
2. The Clampets (6c+) ★ technical slab to easier finish
3. Jump Over My Shadow (7a) ★★ direct line starting just inside cave
4. Conglomeration (7a+) ★★ next line just right to technical finish
5.Standing on a Beach (6c) ★ starts just right to finish up vague groove
6. Reign of the Deer (6c+) ★★ final line to sustained upper wall
7. Picking over the Bones (7a) ★★ fine sustained wall, gently overhanging.
8. The Bone Chamber (7a) ★★ another fine pitch on edge of cave.
The next two route lie in the cave up and to the right. The two left-hand lines are projects.
Snatch (6c+) on left edge of cave, unbalanced fingery route.
Unnamed (6b+) ★★ diagonal crackline
Starter for Ten (7c) ★★ mean line to the right of Snatch.
The Millennium Thug (7a+) ★ line bisecting crackline.
The traditional routes are awaiting names and will be provided once they and a cliff photograph is available.