Quality, long, pumpy climbs in general. All are good, if a little fresh, so don’t be shy and bring a brush.
Will’s Closed Arête Project
Left side of black arête. 15 m
Cybernetic Sex Samurai 6c+/7a ★★
Right side of the black stepped arête on staples. 15 m
Operation Moonshot (6b+) ★
The orange and black vertical wall, starting at an obvious crack. 12 m
Termight (6b) ★
Steep orange corner crack. Intermediate L.O. at 12 m
Nemesis the Warlock (7a) ★★
Continuation staples of Termight. Big but widely spaced holds lead through the black stained roofs and over onto the headwall. 18 m
Pumpelstiltskin (7a) ★★
A boulder problem start at the undercut nose leads rightwards to a steep groove with a small cave at its apex. 18 m
Saffron of Mars (7a) ★★
A direct and logical link up. Takes in the boulder start of Pumplestiltskin and joins into the roofs of Nemesis the Warlock at its half height ring. Combines the cruxes of both routes. 18 m
War of the Worlds (7a/7a+) ★★
Start up Pumplestiltskin but traverse right to meet a low crack. Continue up Galactus to a traverse rightwards onto the ledge of Altered Carbon and finish up this. 20 m.
Galactus (7a+) ★★★
The wall left of the leaning boulder is brilliant and sustained. Follows a series of coal pockets through the steepest section of the cliff. 19 m
Four-oh-Four (7a+) ★★
The left hand variant on Galactus. At the big coal pocket at half height, follow the vague arete right of Pumplestiltskin’s upper groove. At the cave break out right onto the headwall to finish at the L.O. of Galactus. 19 m.
Altered Carbon (7a+) ★
From the top of the leaning boulder, immediately move right to the rib, then back left across the wall using a good crack to the underside of the roof. The meat of the route is tackling the two steep bulges. Always dry. 17 m
The next route starts about 10 m to the right at a lower level.
One Small Step (6b)
Extremely technical groove with a bit of a stopper step up. Half height L.O. 9 m
One Giant Leap (7a+/7b) ★★
Great fun, leaping around on the wildly overhanging arête. Direct continuation of One Small Step. Use the intermediate L.O. to strip q-draws as there is a boulder at ground level. 18 m
Asthmanaut (6b+/6c) ★★★
The arête and grooves above are pumpy. Mount the nose (au cheval) to finish. 18 m.
Celestial Annihilation (7a+)
Square corners to right side of nose. Awkward moves lead to a layback crack and then a delicate sequence through overhanging nose. Follow groove over easier ground until tricky section to L.O. 17 m.
Hands, Face…Space! (6c+/7a) ★★
Enjoyably pumpy. Follow the orange corner leading to black roofs and finishing up the arête on the left. Knee-bar helps clipping L.O. 19 m
Guided by the Science (7a)
Undercut orange wall. Once the first strip roof is surmounted, thin technical moves lead left to the arête. The upper wall has easier face climbing. 16 m
James’ Closed Project
Ropes and one bolt.
Next are a few shorter offerings.
Nuns and Soldiers (6b)
Start left of chimney formed by slab of Pearls of Lutra. Climb the wall on good holds to a fingery bulging section. Pull to a good hold and enter a small groove leading to a slab finish. 11 m
Pearls of Lutra (4b)
Diagonal (L to R) steps on the pinnacle flake. 8 m
Unwind the Chainsaw (6b)
Fingery bulge on the pinnacle flake. Shared L.O. with Pearls of Lutra. 8 m