Although it can be approached from the right or the left, the most common method leads from the left and hence the routes are described thus. In the first small bay are three routes: Hedge of Time (VS 4c) an arete, Conan's Boil (VS 4c) a short wall to its right and The Lapse (E1 5c) a small wall at right-angles to these.
1. Rorama (6c) first small wall up and to the left.
2. Three Men in a Goat (6c) short, steep left-hand variant on Once Bitten.
3. Once Bitten (6b) ★centre of wall. Pleasant after crux start from ledge.
4. Twice Shy (6a) ★ easier right-hand line on wall. Pleasant.
5. Hollow Feeling (6b) ★ short arete above trees gives a gem of a route.
6. Practice What You Preach E3 5bbold traditional route up centre of wall.
7. Pampered (6b) ★ at a lower level, the left arete of the next wall.
8. You Change Me (6c+) ★★ direct line up the obvious wall. An excellent appetiser for the harder routes hereabouts.
9. Nappy Rush (6b) ★★ completes the trio to the right. Excellent.
10. Project the large corner.
The walls to the right increase dramatically in height and provide a selection of very worthwhile pitches.
11. Torch the Earth (7b) ★★ fierce technical face climbing, the hardest move on sandstone?
12. Dirty as a Dog (6b) ★ impressive crackline with bolts!
13. Desert Storm (7a+) ★★★ a sandstone classic. Sustained more than hard. Can be wet low down early in the season.
14. Twenty Second Chance (7a+) ★ desperate start up the rounded arete.
15. Sixty Seconds Go See (7a) ★ more hard starting moves with fine face climbing above.
16. Roaring Forties (6b+) ★ good wall climbing finishing via a crack.
17. Between the Lines (6b+) ★ right-hand line on wall. Good.