Expansionist Walls

The name given to the whole section of wall of which the lower section has been broken up into the Cascade and Sub-Contract Walls. The upper face is dominated by the striking crackline of the Expansionist, the lower section of which is gained by the prominent dirty groove. Either side of this are some superb routes which are best gained via the pitches on the lower walls. Lower-off stations are in position below the upper walls. A magnificent place to climb with atmosphere, airy positions and superb climbing.

1. The Caerphilly Contract (7b+) ★★★ the magnificent upper arete. Fingery with long reaches in a great position. Gained via a pitch on the square-faced wall above the Subcontract wall (5c).

2. Little White Lies (7a) ★★ a fine wall pitch with a long reach for a crux. Gained as for Caerphilly Contract.

3. The Expansionist E3 5b ★★ the striking crackline gives a brilliant pitch. For the full experience try the frightening lower groove. For a more amenable impact link it with the first pitch of Total Recoil.

4. Grit Box (7a+) ★★★ one of the finest wall pitches in the area. Fingery, sustained and superb. Gain it via Total Recoil, swinging left from its belay onto a ledge and then via the obvious fin/slab, PR.

5. Giant Sand (7a+) ★★ more sensational wall climbing on the impressive headwall. Sustained rather than technical. Gain it as for Grit Box.

Around to the left of the Expansionist and Cascade Walls is another good-looking wall above an incline. This provides three worthwhile routes. From right to left these are:

Acatalepsia 6b+ ★ A pleasant open wall climbing with a central crux.

Insomnia 6c+ ★ The central pitch with a damp start but excellent face climbing above. Long reaches.

Amnesia 7a ★ The left-hand line has two very hard moves but a good rest on a large flake below.