Ferndale Right Hand

1. The Loony Left E3 6a

2. $perm Bank (6b) the left centre of the pillar via a groove with a tricky finish taken right of left

3. Eurotrash (6a) ★★ the excellent front face of the pillar on jugs

4. Totally Auburn (6b) ★ the unusual right arete taken on its left side via a jug and sly heel-hook

5. Balancing Blondine (6a) centre of slab to tricky finale

6. Turf Accountancy (5) right-hand side of slab. Poor

7. Rhondda Born, Rhondda Bred (6b) the centre of the face to the right of the large oak tree

8. Anteater's Arete (5+) ★ the long arete is good but has a tricky clip

1. Phogey's Wall (7a) ★★ the steep left-hand side of the wall gives excellent technical face climbing. Take care with the low flake

2. Physical Presents (7b) ★ moves left out of the next route to a series of long moves to regain that route

3. By Appointment Only (6c+) ★★ the groove moving leftwards above the roof with poor footholds and then on large spaced jugs

4. Nine Green Bottles (6b+) ★★ A fine pitch with spaced holds and some extending final moves

5. Oral Challenge (6b+) ★ the vertical wall on layaways before a tricky rising traverse into the next route

6. Prick test (6b) ★ the blackened wall with a short corner above half height

7. Gojira (5+) ★ the open corner finishing via the sharp arete above

8. One Size Fits All (7a) the centre of the wall on small incut holds

9. Hypnothighs (6a+) a tricky sequence into a small corner finish via a corner above the grassy ledge

10. Project

11. La Digue (6c) ★ the wall left of the thin crack moving right and back left to finish

12. Sea Shells on the Seychelles E1 5b ★★ the superb thin crack. May need cleaning from adjacent routes

13. Gregoires Island Lodge (6a+) the right-hand wall