An interesting area with a number of easier routes about to be retro-bolted. At the moment the majority of routes here are traditional slabby face climbs with two or three sporty type routes. Head Buttress is bordered on its left by a vegetated corner line the start of route 1.
1. Nod if you Understand E2 5b
The vegetated corner line, unclimbable at present.
2. Maestro’s Wall E4 6b
Short intense wall above small ledge. New belay added and thread and bolt runner replaced.
3. Yellow Taxi HVS 5b
Pleasant slim shallow groove line Again unclimbable at present. New belay added.
Poison Poisson (6b) ★
Cleaned pillar and pleasant blunt arête.
4. Fresh Fish E5 6a
A bold pitch with a vague groove system. Friend 1.5 useful. Ivy covered. New belay added, cleaned and retrobolted.
5. In Apedex (7b) ★★
Superb line through prominent overlap. Mega-reach crux. Ivy covered. New belay added, cleaned and rebolted.
6. The Motley Crew E3 6a
Technical twisting groove, awkward through overlap. New belay added, cleaned and retrobolted
7. Muddy Waters (6a) ★★
Pleasant and worthwhile climbing when clean.
8. Slow Boat to Chepstow (6b) ★
Similar to its neighbor with intricate start.
9. Up the Garden Path E3 6a
Appropriate in name in what has come from above and how long it took to weed out. 5BRs and a few nuts and wires.
10. Cocotte E4 6a ★
A fine and pleasant upper arête, almost a sport route.