Central Buttress 3

Central Buttress Left, Water Cum Jolly

26. Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b a very loose start leads to the easy crackline and chimney above.

27. Squatter's Rights HVS 4c the same start but a marginally better finish up the huge flakeline.

28. My Fickle Resolve (6c+) ★★ a new sport route tackling a tricky lower wall with a devious move and a fine technical upper section on excellent rock. A little dusty on the half height ledge.

Warhead (6c) ★ Climbs My Fickle Resolve then breaks out R to gain the upper section of Une Jour Parfait.

29. Une Jour Parfait (7b) ★ a very powerful and fingery direct line with a very bouldery feel to it. 5m of testing stuff. High in grade.

30. Fire and Water (7b+) ★ a mean wall pitch exiting the lower scoop from the left. Feels hard for the grade.

31. The Alien E4 6b ★★★ an absolute classic taking a reasonable lower wall to a very extending move from an undercut to a huge jug. The upper wall is superb. Recleaned, belay upgraded and new peg added.

32. Aliens E6 6c a right-hand variant to The Alien exiting right and up before its crux. Seems to share ground with the next route

33. White Fright E6 6b ★ a bit of an enigma, crossing the lower overhang leftwards and tackling the headwall via an undercling and shallow groove complete with pegs.

34. Knuckle Knocker E3 5c ★★ a classic crossing the lower crux overhang for the superb jamming crack/corner above.

35. War E5 6a ★★ another fine and often overlooked pitch with a bold sequence through the mid-height overlap. Recleaned and new peg added.

36. Freedom is Insane (7a) ★ a good little discovery with a tricky lower move and technical face climbing above the break.

37. Hairy Legs E3 6a ★ the lower wall is shared with Deja Vu to a belay on the left. The tight V groove in the arĂȘte is excellent.

38. Aftervision E3 5c ★ a sort of direct from the belay of Hairy Legs via an undercut flake.

39. Deja Vu (6c) ★ a potential classic running almost the full height of the crag with a slightly scrappy lower half.

40. Heatwave HVS 5a the long slim corner could be excellent if cleaned.

41. No Chains on Me (6c) ★ another fine little pitch with a technical lower wall and a fine fingery arĂȘte and shallow groove.

42. The Chain Gang (6c+) ★ another good little route branching right to climb a shallow groove.

43. Cool Hand Luke E5 6b ★ Hard climbing gained via a rightwards exit from The Chain Gang. Loads a pegs.

44. Disparagement E4 6a continues further right to the next groove. Take a belay below it?

Disparagement / Epithet (7a+) is the modern bolted version

45. Escape Artist (7a+) ★ a direct line bisecting the traverse to a difficult headwall.

The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let's Do the Time Warp Again (7c) ★ sport version of the old trad route, Time Warp. Climbs out of the undercut scoop on the left side via undercuts then heads back rightwards past some overhangs on the left to finish up a groove.