Central Buttress 3

Central Buttress Left, Water Cum Jolly

26. Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b
A very loose start leads to the easy crackline and chimney above.

27. Squatter’s Rights HVS 4c
The same start but a marginally better finish up the huge flakeline.

28. My Fickle Resolve (6c+) ★★
A new sport route tackling a tricky lower wall with a devious move and a fine technical upper section on excellent rock. A little dusty on the half height ledge.

Warhead (6c)
Climbs My Fickle Resolve then breaks out R to gain the upper section of Une Jour Parfait.

29. Une Jour Parfait (7b)
A very powerful and fingery direct line with a very bouldery feel to it. 5m of testing stuff. High in grade.

30. Fire and Water (7b+)
A mean wall pitch exiting the lower scoop from the left. Feels hard for the grade.

31. The Alien E4 6b ★★★
An absolute classic taking a reasonable lower wall to a very extending move from an undercut to a huge jug. The upper wall is superb. Recleaned, belay upgraded and new peg added.

32. Aliens E6 6c
A right-hand variant to The Alien exiting right and up before its crux. Seems to share ground with the next route.

White Aliens 7b
Start up White Fright and finish up the rib of Aliens. 9 BRs. The route has been bolted to allow Aliens to be climbed in it’s original form (ie with trad gear). Also known as Aliens Direct Start.

White Fright Direct Start (7b) ★★
This starts 5 metres right of The Alien. Climb the wall right of a flake to a roof. Above the roof step left and go up to a small roof. Make a long reach then step right and climb the wall above using sidepulls. Sustained. 9 BRs.

33. White Fright E6 6b
A bit of an enigma, crossing the lower overhang leftwards and tackling the headwall via an undercling and shallow groove complete with pegs.

Knock and Run (7c+) ★★
Climbs the smooth white wall left of Knuckle Knocker. Start up Knuckle Knocker but pull over the short roof and move up a short rib. Make a long reach to gain the white wall and climb this on undercuts and sharp edges.

34. Knuckle Knocker E3 5c ★★
A classic crossing the lower crux overhang for the superb jamming crack/corner above.

35. War E5 6a ★★
Another fine and often overlooked pitch with a bold sequence through the mid-height overlap. Recleaned and new peg added.

36. Freedom is Insane (7a)
A good little discovery with a tricky lower move and technical face climbing above the break.

37. Hairy Legs E3 6a
The lower wall is shared with Deja Vu to a belay on the left. The tight V groove in the arête is excellent.

38. Aftervision E3 5c
A sort of direct from the belay of Hairy Legs via an undercut flake.

39. Deja Vu (6c)
A potential classic running almost the full height of the crag with a slightly scrappy lower half.

40. Heatwave HVS 5a
The long slim corner could be excellent if cleaned.

41. No Chains on Me (6c)
Another fine little pitch with a technical lower wall and a fine fingery arête and shallow groove.

42. The Chain Gang (6c+)
Another good little route branching right to climb a shallow groove.

43. Cool Hand Luke E5 6b
Hard climbing gained via a rightwards exit from The Chain Gang. Loads a pegs.

44. Disparagement E4 6a
Continues further right to the next groove. Take a belay below it?

Disparagement / Epithet (7a+)
This is the modern bolted version.

45. Escape Artist (7a+)
A direct line bisecting the traverse to a difficult headwall.

The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let’s Do the Time Warp Again (7c)
A sport version of the old trad route, Time Warp. Climbs out of the undercut scoop on the left side via undercuts then heads back rightwards past some overhangs on the left to finish up a groove.