The Balcony


A small crag hidden in the trees opposite to the Triglyph Buttress at Stoney Middleton. Although hidden by trees, it offers a handful of short routes on good quarried rock. Facing east it gets very little sunlight and can be damp during humid weather or after rain. Discoverd by Nick Taylor and routes 1-10 climbed by Nick and John Allen (what's he done on grit?). Second batch by G Gibson


From the parking spot of Darlton Quarry, follow the track up into the quarry i.e. up the track and over the barrier to the left. Do not turn into the quarry but follow the left-hand side of the quarry past the quarry buildings and downwards to an obvious sign depicting a public path then going up into the trees to the right. Follow this for 20m before ascending the slope directly - can be slipper - until the walls can be seen. If followed, this track brings up to an overlook into Goddards Quarry

1. Mere Pseud Mag. Ed(5) short wall to a ledge then via overlap and right to lower off

2. Prole Art Threat (6a+) gain the ledge from the right then fingery wall direct

3. Corsican Bolt Route (6a) * the right-hand arete has nice moves

4. Flat of Angles (6b) short arete to the right of the chimney moving right to the lower off

5. League of Bald Headed Men (6a) cracked wall just right. Moving into previous route makes a 5+

6. Bremen Nacht (6a) short crack and arete above on wall to right

7. Tempo House (6b) * bouldery start then nice wall

8. Blindness (6c) difficult crack and steep wall. Moves left onto hollow fin then back right to lower off

9. Fiery Jack (6b+) through overlap, tricky wall to disappointing holds in top break. Hard move left to lower off

10. The NWRA (6a+) * through gap in the bulge, step left and blunt arete. Good rock

The upper right-hand wall has seven pleasant but short face climbs:

1. Richard (4), 2. Of (5+), 3. York (5), 4. Gave (5), 5. Battle (5+), 6. In (6a) 7. Vain (6a)