Garage Buttress

Garage Buttress left

Access to the first eight routes is gained by climbing the initial ledgy section of Rippemoff to the ledge and from its left end, utilizing an in-situ rope to gain access to the trees on the left and the belays of all of the routes. There is an abseil station on the clump of trees at the end of the rope.

1. Trigger (7a+) a desperate sequence through the left-hand bulge at the back of the bay.

2. Two Ton Ted from Teddington (6b+) the right-hand bulge is a little tamer.

3. Knockin' on the Bread Man’s Door (6c) a series of overlaps provides the difficulty onto a relatively straightforward headwall.

4. Bohemian (6b+) ★ a finer and more sustained line with a short tricky section from the break.

5. Empty Cartridge (6b+) ★ excellent climbing with one hard pull above the break.

6. Unloaded (6c+) a tricky bulge and long move on the headwall.

7. Reloaded (6b+) ★ a surprising find with a tricky mid-height bulge and excellent headwall.

8. Matricide E4 6a ★ blasts straight through the centre of Matrix. Almost a sport routes and needs just a couple of medium wires at the top.

9. I Hate You (7a) ★★ a superb pitch with a tricky lower bulge, long reach through the overlaps and technical headwall.

Garage Buttress Right

10. Turf ‘em Off (6b+) Easy lower wall right of Rippemoff to excellent steep wall.

11. Glue ‘em Back (7b) leftwards line via intricate wall from left end of terrace.

12. There May be Rubble Ahead (7b) unbalanced climbing with a desperate crux. Apparently a 6c move only gets 7b. Hmmm!

13. Dig for Victory (7c) the left most line from the ledge. The left-hand variant is Dig Deeper (8a).

14. Ozone Bozo (7c) ★ a tough problem from the left end of the ledge via a sling on a bolt.

15. Tollbar (8a+) ★★ fingery right-hand version of Ozone.

Double the Rubble (7c) the gently overhanging wall to the right.

16. Trouble with Rubble (8a) ★ short intense sequence on obvious line.

17. Big Apple (8a) ★ the faint blunt rib gives a fingery exercise.

18. Little Plum (8a, 7b+) ★★ the old classic with a desperate, boulder-problem lower wall and fine roof finale.

19. Lover’s Leap (7b+) ★ left-hand side of Little Plum Roof

20. Ming the Merciless (8a+) ★ the first bolted line right of Little Plum

21. Smoothlands (6a) short lower wall warm up

21. Lowerlands (5) right-hand warm up.

23. King of Ming (7b+) ★★ perhaps the best route here with a tough central section and excellent final through the bulges on the headwall.

24. Lowlands (6c+) ★ technical blunt rib, feels tricky for the grade and now has a new finish via a shallow groove, bulge and headwall.

25. Dreamcatcher (6b+) ★★ a long route packed with interest: a technical lower wall and engrossing final bulge.

26. Creamsnatcher (6b) ★ the right-hand line gives pleasant sustained interest.

27. Gulp and Go (6b+) ★ fine and pleasantly sustained climbing up to the Pendulum break with a short difficult sequence above. 70m rope required

28. Can’t Stop Now (6c) ★ short hard section branching off left from 4000. Excellent.

29. Redeployed (6c+) ★ left-hand extension above the belay past a prominent undercut with hard moves to reach it.

30. Up Yours (7a) ★ Continue up the steep wall above the belay of Can’t Stop Now. Strenuous but short.

31. Four Thousand (6c) ★ long route with easier lower section to Pendulum break (6a+) with lower-off and upper section to higher belay.

32. Onwards and Upwards (6a) straight up from the start of 4000.

33. Nowt about Change (6b) easy start and tricky finale on layaways.

34. Just End It! (6a+) ★ start through overlap then direct via shallow groove.

35. End, Stop, Finale (6b) rightwards through overlap and ledges to blunt rib.

36. The Last Stop (5+) easy ledges to steep finale.