An open and exposed face known to the locals as the Sphinx, this impressive buttress is easily seen to the right of the horseshoe bend when travelling from the parking area of Horseshoe Quarry towards Stoney Middleton. It gives a handful of routes with ease of access, ideal for a summer's evening.
There is one small lay-by right on the crown of the bend on the right-hand side of the road when coming from Horseshoe Quarry. Otherwise take the right turn before the bend when coming from Horseshoe and park a little way up on the left (as for Darlton 2).
From the first parking spot walk up the slope, hop over the fence and the crag is up and to the left. You can also approach as for Darlton 2 veering left on the path instead of right. The crag is very visible.
The crag is very open, with one south face and one west face, and gets the sun almost all day long but can be breezy due to its open aspect. The rock is good and in an exposed position.
As with all quarries, access is forbidden. Please be discrete and if asked to leave do so quietly.
1. Sitting Bull (6a) a short pull before moves left to the arete from a ledge.
2. Sit on it (5+) the same short pull them jamming cracks.
3. Sit down on It. (6a) left-hand line of cracks
4. Sit start it ain't (6a) the right-hand line of cracks
5. Sit up and Beg (6b) the excellent face, tough for the grade.
6. Ranking Joe VS 4c the obvious crackline with good holds and jams. Move left to the belay on the last route.
7. Sit Down Wall (6a) pleasant face climbing left of the arete
8. Stand Out Arete (6b) ★ the well-positioned arete give photogenic climbing.
9. Darlton Diagonal (6a) from the second bolt make a link across the wall to the belay on Sitting Bull
10. Christmas Crackers (6c+) ★ climbs the arete on its right-hand side after the start of Stand Out Arete. Rebolted
11. Where's Wall E (6c) ★the centre of the wall to the right with a stopper crux.
12. Berserker Joe (5) the excellent jamming crack to the right move left to the finish of Christmas Crackers. Can be linked into the top corner of:
13. Footprints in the Snow (6a+) ★ wall to steep corner
14. Trouser Ripper (6b+) problem start on arete then cracks and overlap finish
15. Drill Bit Taylor (6b) tough overlap to crack and leftwards finish
16. Mas y Mas (6a) blocky line to tricky finale
Around to the left of the mainwall is a small,secluded wall in a bay 100m walk away. This gives several routes described from L to R:
Taylor's Missing Rib (6a+) an easy wall to a ledge moving rightwards from the crack to a flying arete.
Lurcher (E1 5b) climbs easily up said crack but finish direct up the wall.
I Am Seb Grieve (7b) a direct version of Taylor's Missing Rib. Unusual!
Hollow Man (6b+) tricky to below an overlap and a balancy exit to left-hand side of face.
Black Matter (6c) from the ledge of the previous route, traverse right above the overlap to a mantel finale.
Black Matter Direct (6c+) avoid the traverse right by tricky moves straight up.
Still We Ride (6b) from the shared start moves right below the overlap to gain the fist crack and corner which has a poorer direct start at E2 5c.