On entering the quarry the first walls seen at the back of the quarry are clearly recognized by a small cave at 10m. This is the Cave area (routes to the right are sometimes called The Toilet sector). Left of the cave is the Androids Area identified by a long corner line. The best area, the Main Wall is 70m further left and is obvious by name. The walls extend beyond this for some distance and then form a series of slabs on the back wall, The Slabs. On the left-hand side of this and facing towards Main wall are a steep yellowish wall (Heart Buttress) and a bay (Gouranga Bay). Above the Main Wall lies the recently developed Upper Tier.
The sectors are listed in a clockwise, left to right order with the upper tiers first.
The nearest railway station is Grindleford which is 7.1km or 24 mins by bike from the crag.
Leave the station and turn right (south) on Station Road. After 500m join the B6521 (New Road). Cross over the Derwent river and carry on through Grindleford. Follow this road for about 2.5km past a parking area on the right. Take the next right, about 200m past the parking, into Eyam. Follow the main road, The Dale (B6521) south out of Eyam to the A623. Turn R here and follow the main road past sharp RH bend. Continue up the road for about 500m. There is a raised parking area on the right that precedes the footpath into the quarry.
The Eyam to Stoney Middleton bus service stops on the A623 where it meets The Dale. The crag is about 3km or 30 mins walk from here.
Check bus services and times for Stoney Middleton.
The quarry is situated about 2km up the A623 from Stoney Middleton. Follow the road past the turn off for Eyam (B6521) to a sharp right-hand bend. About 400m past this there is raised parking area on the right. This is the official parking for the quarry though you can also park on the left in one of the lay-bys a little further on. From the official parking spot follow the track into the quarry. See map below for more info.
The BMC now owns half the quarry (shown on the right) and that part of the quarry is freely accessible. Although there is no right to access the other parts of the quarry there have not been any issues and people climb there too.