As you continue along the main path beyond the Plantation area the quarry opens up into a vast area of broken and unstable walls. This is known as the Wild West. Most of the rock hereabouts is far to unstable for climbing. However there are a few solid section that have been discovered and developed.
Unlike the rest of Goddard’s these walls face south so will get the sun most of the day. The first climbing here was on Sunshine Wall which is set high enough to get some sun even in the middle of winter. They do get wet after rain but dry relatively quickly given the right conditions.
The Sunshine area is broken into 3 distinct tiers.
The approach path to Sunshine Wall with Chuckles Wall directly below.
When approaching Sunshine Wall from the left the path passes beneath a big wall. There is currently the only route here.
1. Sun of Sam (6b+)
Climb the wall strenuously through overlaps and cracks. Good climbing on mostly solid rock if a little dirty.
2. Sun of a Gun (7a+)
The first and hardest route on Sunshine Wall has good climbing throughout with hard moves past the 3rd bolt.
3. Sunny Side Up (6c+)
The technical lower half leads to strenuous crack climbing to finish.
4. Here Comes the Sun (6b+)
Open climbing with some perplexing moves.
5. Good Day Sunshine (6b)
The easiest on the wall is still not totally straigtforward.
Sun Honey (6a)
Climbs the narrow wall some 20m right of Sunshine Wall.
Further right again up a short square arete.
Chuckles Wall is the smoother, dark coloured wall on the middle tier. It’s directly below Sunshine Wall and is split by an obvious deep crack (Goddard’s Crack) in its centre.
6. The Haunted Sidepull (6a)
The line at the left end of the wall. Better than it looks.
7. To Me To You (6a+)
The second line has an awkward start and technical climbing higher up.
8. Chucklevision (6b)
Start below the tree stump in the first break and climb the wall directly.
9. Chuckles Wall (6a+)
The wall just left of Goddard’s Crack.
10. Goddards Crack (VS 4c)
The deep crack line that splits the full height of the wall.
11. AC Temple (6b)
Just right of the crack. Take care: suspect rock.
12. The Mam Tor Hopping Challenge (6a)
The wall just left of the short corner.
13. Bistari, Bistari (5)
The corner line up dirty fractured rock.
The next routes begin some 100m right of Chuckles Wall at the same level.
Please Satanise Your Hands (6a+)
Climb the thin crack to an overlap and then the wider jamming crack above.
Sorry To Bother You (6b+)
The thin dogleg crack right of Please Satanise.
Film Star’s Lunch Break (6a+)
The last route on Sunshine Middle consists of a rising leftwards traverse.
At the lowest level of this part of the quarry is a fractured white wall. This contains 2 routes.
1. Goddard’s Hand Care Routine (6b)
The left side of the wall contains an obvious crack in its upper half. Gain this with difficulty, climb it, then move right to the shared lower off.
2. Nice One My Sun (6b+)
Climbs the wall just right of the previous route. Worthwhile.