This wall is situated further into the quarry. Turn right past the initial wall and walk past the impressive (and collapsing) walls before following a grassy bank leftwards to the face. Easy to find. 5 minutes.
On the far left of this wall is an isolated route with a testing first 10m: Fingers Away (6b) whilst to the right is a good little wall Let’s See those Fingers (6b).
1. Crozzles Away (6b)
tricky start then peculiar calcite tumps.
2. Pebbles Away (6b)
tricky thick crack moving rightwards to second crack. Direct finish (6b+)
2a. Name not Known (5)
an awful route on the right edge of the wall.
3. Unbroken (7b)
shallow groove moving leftwards to desperate boulder problem finale. Harder since loss of crucial crimp.
3a. Name not Known (6b+) ★
excellent climbing via the blunt rib and short wall. Good
4. Careless Tooth (6c) ★
leftwards from ledge to technical and fingery wall.
5. Not to be Drunken Away (7a+)
straight up wall with hideous move at overlap.
6. Heir Pit (6c+) ★
easy start over blocks then fine technical face and overlap.
7. The Bit Man (7a)
block to ledge then technical lower wall.
8. Big Hare (6c+)
fingery wall above large block. Worthwhile.
9. Debrilliant (6c) ★
good climbing leftwards and then up the centre of the wall. Sustained
10. Careless Talc (6b+) ★
good climbing straight up the right-hand side of the wall. Hard finish.
Further right is an arête. Mup me (5+) climbs the groove on its left and Strong Like Horse (6a) is the arête. Right again in a bay is Tree Twister (6a+) ★ .
A further 50m to the right is a compact calcite wall.
1. Dendrophilia (6b+) ★
climbs a flowstone pillar
2. Eticlac (6b)
left-hand line on the next calcite wall
3. Underclac (6b)
4. Style Scott (6b) ★
left arête and left side of wall
5. Flabba Holt (6a)
right arête and right side of wall
6. Junjo Lawes (6a+)
the steep flowstone crack