The Main Wall is the biggest and most impressive wall in Goddard’s but also has the worst rock quality. The combination of length and dubious rock can make the routes seem more intimidating than usual at the grade. Great care should be taken when climbing here, even on the best routes. The worst routes are best avoided altogether. A helmet can protect against smaller bits of rock but cannot protect against larger rockfalls. Always belay to one side, out of the line of fire.
Around the corner as you make your way along the crag are three routes:
Tower of Pain (6a) ⛛
The first tower as you walk into the quarry. Unstable and best avoided.
1. By Goddard (6c) takes a slim pillar with good technical moves, more sustained than cruxy
2. Sheffield Tape Archive(6a+) a long slim arête finishing high on the cliff.
1 15 Steps (6c) 30m ★★
the huge hanging arête in the centre of the big decaying-looking walls. Superb climbing, a little dusty low down but magnificent positions high up.
2. Neon Boneyard (6b+) ⛛
A long route taking a cracked arête and headwall. Dangerous detached blocks at one third height.
Starts up Neon Boneyard but breaks out right to climb the arête at the top. BB but no lower off.
Brotherly Love (6b+)
Starts some thirty feet or so R of Neon Boneyard and climbs the line of detached blocks. Best avoided.
Back, Sack and Crack (6a+) 35m
Start as for Brotherly Love via ‘dubious blocks’ moving right into a crack. There are two lower offs, one at mid-height, one near the top.
The next four routes are gained via an in-situ rope leading up to them. They are still a little dusty at their base.
3. Testing the Fossil (7a)
A tricky sequence above the second bolt and one hard move high up.
4. Fossilized (6c)
The right-hand of the two lines has a hard move low down/
5. Crinoid Corner (6a+)
The big corner line
6. Amanitas (6c+)
The flowstone arête.
New Facts Emerge (6b+) ★
The big arête left of Goddard’s Corner.
The next routes are big pitches that start near an obvious corner.
7. Goddards Corner (6a+)
The long corner line with gained via a short introductory wall. Needs more traffic.
8. Oh My Goddard (7a+)
A long with plenty of tricky moves and a real atmosphere to it: stay out of the corner. Tough
9. For Goddard’s Sake (7a+)
More of the same right again with hard moves from the overhang onwards. Intimidating