This is the buttress on the opposite side of the river to Ravens Tor, Miller’s Dale and slightly upstream. It has a clutch vertical wall climbs on the right side and steeper, harder routes on its left. This lefthand section can remain climable in light rain.
The buttress faces North so can provide a good usually quiet spot on a hot summer’s day.
The far left-hand side of the buttress (not described here) has a handful of trad routes but has become overgrown and has not been recleaned.
Park as for Ravens Tor and walk down the road to the first bridge across the river. Climb up the steps in front of you, with Ergonomic Buttress to your right and reach the Monsal trail, the path of an old railway track. Walk right (west) along this past a railed off area on the right and through a cutting. As soon as the quarried cutting ends a vague track can be seen on the right leading into the trees. You can also reach this point by parking at the Millers Dale carpark and following the Monsal trail east over the viaduct. Follow this, down a knotted rope and traverse down and to the right (facing out) to the cliff. Please do not traverse the river bank. Please leave the same way as you came in.
1. Where I Live (7a) ★
Difficult moves though the bulge to a belay out left.
3. Fade to Grey (7b) ★
Technical groove followed by a thuggish finale rebolted 2020
4. Count Duckula (7c)
From the ledge a long pull around the initial bulge lead via a wall the the centre of the capping roof.
5. Chuck the Duck (7b)
6. Yer Right Me Duck (6b+) ★
Good face climbing with an obvious crux through the overlap
7. Grippe (6a)
The left-hand of two pleasant face climb to a joint belay
8. Blown Away (6a+)
The right-hand line is a little more technical
9. Nice ‘n’ Sneazy (6a+)
Climbs the vague arete via a shallow groove to a tree belay rebolted 2020
10. Windy as (6c) On the right-hand side of the vague arete via technical moves rebolted 2020
11. Get a Grippe (7a) ★
The obvious pillar with hard moves through the overlap rebolted 2020
12. Sneazy as (6b+) ★
The thin crack leading into a shallow groove rebolted 2020
13. Whispa (6c)
The pillar right of the crack with a tricky bulge rebolted 2020
14. Blowin' (6b+)
A pillar up and to the right rebolted 2020