The steep and pumpy nature of the climbing rewards a go for it approach though take care on the easier top section at the right hand end of the wall where there is still some loose rock.
Some of the lower offs on this wall are Pigtails. These don’t require clipping in, untieing and threading but they can be confusing if you haven’t used them before. To use: first put a half twist in the your rope and then thread it through from the left, over the spike and round so that the rope sits in the bottom of the hook.
Short groove and wall around to left. Surprisingly worthwhile
1. Java Script (7a+)
The arête. Hard moves to transfer onto the right-hand side and a long reach higher up.
2. In the Pocket (6c+) ★
A series of good holds to a steep and reachy finale.
3. Pocket Rocket (6c) ★★
Excellent pocket and edge pulling to the left of Eye, Eye via a left-facing flake. Steep.
4. Eye, Eye (6b+) ★★
A superb pitch via a series of calcite encrusted pockets on the overhanging wall. Pure magic and the warm up for this wall.
5. Exorcised (7b) ★★
Excellent but very fingery face climbing via the centre of the orange streak. Sustained.
6. Exo6 (7a+) ★★
Another fine sustained and fingery route straight up the orange wall. Recently lost a big hold making it harder and more sustained. A long quickdraw preplaced on the fourth bolt is now very helpful.
7. Bison Fute (7a+) ★
The blunt rib on the edge of the crackline with a series of extending moves.
8. Pierluigi Galena (7a) ★
The unusual-looking galena ridden groove line. Excellent, sustained climbing.
9. Second Class Citizen (6c+) ★★
Sustained and fingery face climbing straight up the flat orange-tinged face to an awkward finale. Often suffers seepage at the top.
10. Quatrieme Quartier (7a) ★★
Another fine sustained pitch direct up the wall left of the last route.
11. Handy Borehole (6c+) ★★
Another fine pitch starting up the last route before branching off right to climb up via the large undercut borehole and fine grey streak above. High in the grade.
12. The Premier Club (7a+) ★★
Takes the blank looking wall R of the Handy Borehole then joins that route for the ‘borehole move’. Finish direct up the headwall L of the last route.
13. The Masson Chronicles (7b) ★★
Full on climbing crossing Pete Clark to rejoin it after a very fingery sequence.
14. The Pete Clark Diaries (7a) ★
A difficult lower wall followed by a short hard section. The clipping hold for the fifth bolt has gone so a preplaced draw is now helpful here.
15. Nice One Masson (7a) ★★★
The impressive overhanging wall to the left starting via a rock scar where a large flake once abode. Super sustained.
16. New Start (7b)
A desperate sequence involving a long reach to gain the start of Woof Justice from slightly to the left.
17. Woof Justice (7a+) ★★
Branches out left via an ’ear’ followed by difficult moves to a ledge. Easier above.
18. Grand Theft Auto (7a) ★★
The prominent groove line finishing via the easier wall above. Another fine route with unusual bridging moves.