Long Tor lower

Long Tor topo

The left-hand side of the wall can be climbed from ‘ground’ level. The routes on the right-hand side of the face are accessed by an in-situ rope.

I don’t See the World the Way You Do (7a)
Desperate fingery sequence on left-hand side of wall.

1. Mrs. Jackson’s Warning (6c)
Step up to the prominent break and pull up to a ledge. Stretch up and left to good finishing holds.

2. The Orcadian Donkey’s Spotted Tail (6c+)
Swing along the break to a large hold, and reach up leftwards to pull into a small recess. Great moves lead to bigger hold and a tricky finish.

3. Tatanka Yotanka (7a+)
From the large hold continue all the way along the break to finish below Exit Wounds.

4. Depravity (7c)
From the good hold on ODST traverse on rightwards on a gradually rising line to reach the Rinsemeal lower-off.

5. Mosey On Down The Crow Road (8a) ★★
Step onto the wall and move up on minimal holds to make either a long reach, or dynamic crossover to a large layaway hold up to the left. After controlling the swing, pull up to the break and traverse to the large hold. Move up into the recess, make difficult moves round the bulge and climb the wall above, moving slightly rightwards at the top.

6. Project

7. Ruby Fruit Jungle (8a) ★★
Delicate and reachy moves lead to the break, from which easy moves lead over a bulge to a good hold. An intense series of moves on small crimps lead up and rightwards to a better hold. Move up, with difficulty to reach the lower-off.

8. The Boltest (7c) ★★★
Long dynamic moves lead to the break, from which a sustained sequence of moves lead to better holds and a long pull for the lower-off.

9. Rinsemeal (7a+)
Using the flaky crackline, reach the break just to the left of Jade. Move up using holds on the wall as well as the arête to a blatancy finish.

10. Jade (7a)
Using the first bolt on Pistol Fingers for protection, move up to the base of the prominent groove. Pull into this with difficulty and bridge up the open-book corner to the belay.

11. Pistol Fingers (8a) ★★
Easy moves lead to the break, from which a complicated series of moves lead up and then slightly left to a very tricky finish.

12. Exit Wounds (7c+) ★★
Move up and undercut the break to reach distant holds on the wall above. Hard moves lead to a better hold, from which a prominent side-pull can be reached on the right. Make a long reach to small crimps, which lead to a resting hold. Climb direct, with difficulty to the lower-off.

13. Future Primitive (7b) *★Strenuous moves lead over the bulge into the steep crackline. Sustained and blatancy climbing lea*d up this to the lower-off on the left.

14. Duality (7b+)
Move up the flake and make a long reach to the ledge above. Stand on this and climb directly to the lower-off on small crimps.

15. Crystalline (7a)
With little for the feet, lay-back up the crackline to a better hold. Continue via blatancy layaway moves to the lower-off.

16. Sac du Sable (6c)
Starting at the base of the shallow groove, move up then reach rightwards to gain the crackline proper.

Steep moves on good holds lead directly to the lower-off.

17. Mr. Jackson’s Yawning (7a+)
Step onto the ledge and move up the wall to a final difficult crux.