Darkness Walls

The Darkness Walls face north east and thus get almost no sun so a great place for hot day. The rock is some of the best in the quarry.

Darkness topo 1

When walking around from the Take Away Wall a series of walls provides three routes on unusually bubbly rock: Unhappy Hour (6c) a short steep pillar at a higher level with excellent fingery moves, Nappy Hour (5) a bubbly face past a prominent thread and White Tripe (5) a prominent cleaned strip.

Before reaching the main area of the Darkness Walls is a prominent pillar with three sport routes upon it. These are:

Unlimited Choice (5) a slim pillar just left of the routes marked. Pleasant.

My Furious Tortoise (6b) ★ the centre of the tower gives fine open climbing

Life Has No Porpoise (6a) the right edge of the tower again with excellent moves.

The Shambling (6b) an isolated pillar to the right which at the moment is dusty and has a few hollow holds.

All of the routes on the main Darkness Walls have double bolt belays at their base.

1. Dashboard (5) pleasant face route to large flake. A little dusty at present

2. Join the Dots (5) easy pleasant wall, left-hand of three at high level. Worth doing.

3. See Spot Run(6b+) ★ pleasant central pillar with excellent moves.

4. In a Dash (6c) right-hand pillar, slightly dirty at the start. Worthwhile above.

5. Dashdance (6a) left-hand side of pillar at higher level.

6. Spot’s the Difference (6a) right-hand side of prominent pillar with overlap and good climbing.

7. The Clumps (5) ★ left-hand side of main wall gives classic pitch of easy standard. Better after traffic.

8. A Sharp Intake of Breath (6b) ★ central line via faint crackline on wall. A future classic. Sustained.

9. Brain Candy (6b) ★ pleasant face climbing on right edge of wall to joint belay. New belay added

10. Stinking Rose (6b+) ★ tricky start through bulge and flake to more fine open face. New belay added

11. Prickly Pose (6c+) ★ fine face climbing with a sting in the tail on the slim wall to the right of Stinking Rose. New belay added

12. Rabbit Proof Fence (6c) ★★ superb isolated pillar, just worth grade. Will become even better after traffic. New belay added

13. Brer Faced Cheek (6c) ★ rightwards line off from Rabbit Proof with good moves and one short difficult section. New belay added

14. No Country for Old Men (6b) A good pitch up left-hand side of face after arete start. New belay added

15. Intolerable Cruelty (7a) ★ left side of arete to ledge then superb, intricate upper wall with well-defined crux. New belay added

16. Intake it or Leave it (6b) ★ a surprisingly good pitch taking the prominent crack in the centre of the wall. Fine climbing. New belay added

17. Tucker’s Grave (6c+) ★★ yet another long fine pitch up the main black wall. Difficulties centred around 8m section. New belay added

18. Plum Tuckered Out (6b) ★★★ the right-hand side of the main black wall via a crack. Gives a peek at the last route. New belay added

19. Two Tuck In (6b+) ★ long pitch via left-hand side of wall to right. Sustained effort, gradually easing.

20. Friar Tuck (6c) well cleaned lower wall past orange patch to thin crack system. Needs more cleaning.

21. Tuck-Shop Brawl (6b+) ★ branches right off Friar Tuck to take pleasant pillar.

22. Can’t Teach ’em Nowt (6c) ★ moves leftwards from That’ll Teach up to a ledge. Then goes left and up via the fine arete.

Caretaker Darkness Wall right

23. That’ll Teach ’em (7a) ★ highly technical face climb with loads of tricky moves.

24. A Jam’s as good as a Rest E3 5c ★★ the stepped crackline to the right. The belay of the last route can be utilised for a descent.

25. Red Zingers E3 5c ★★ the prominent twisting crack in the side wall moving left from porthole to finish via a thin crack.

26. Dead Ringer (6c+) ★★ brilliant open wall climbing just over vertical. Sustained and a future classic.

27. Looky Likey (6b+) ★ a fine open wall climb starting via the right arete of the Dead Ringer wall and climbing slightly rightwards onto the face after a steep start. Fine rock.