This is the wall sitting at a high level up and to the right of Plum Buttress. It has very easy access, dries relatively quickly and has a handful of routes at a relatively amenable standard. Ideal for an evening visit or warm-up/warm-down into the dale.
From the upper car park at Topley Pike follow the path along the ridge into the gully. Do not go down the gully but cross the hillside directly opposite and go through a gate after 150m. Shortly after passing through the gate, drop down the path on the left for about 75m and then move onto the right and around the corner onto the face.
1. Muggle (6b)
difficult move above second bolt.
2. Ugg Land (6b) ★
the left-hand wall of two routes on the far left.
3. Percentages of Ugliness (6b) ★
the right-hand of the two routes on the far wall to a tree belay
4. Your Ugliness (6a)
the slabby wall to the right gives a worthwhile warm-up pitch
5. Ugg Boots (5)
right-hand side of the slab moving left to shared belay
6. The Ugly Bug Ball (6b+)
the hanging arete in the centre of the face to a bulging finale. Good
7. Ugly is as Ugly Does? (6c)
the hanging right arete of the right-hand groove with a hard entry
8. Over the Ugg (6b) ★
the right wall of the corner on the right-hand side of the buttress climbing just left of the bolts (direct 6b+). Good
9. Ugg, Ugg, Ugg (6c)
the right arete of the wall with a desperate start (V5?)
This is the buttress at the bottom of the hill on the right and contains a handful of mean routes.
1. Topley and Out (6b)
left of the shallow hanging groove. Bouldery
2. Project Topley (7a)
right of the shallow hanging groove. Short and stiff.
3. Little Big Climb (7a+)
just to the right and eases, only slightly, after a really bouldery start
4. Double Topley (7b)
mean to the extreme up the centre of the face. High in the grade.