Two Tier Left (LH topo)

1. Entree (8a+) ★ mega intense boulder problem into slight groove.

2. Stogumber Club (7c) similar just to left.

3. Nerefaun E4 6c blunt hanging arete with desperate start.

4. Stolen Fruit E4 6b ★ short desperate problem left of groove. Long traverse right along break to Entree and to top.

5. Isolate E3 6b same start as Stolen Fruit, then to roof exiting right.

6. Malnutrition E3 6a ★ short corner 5m left exiting right and up to roof. Through this finishing leftwards.

7. Offal E3 6a ★ open corner, long traverse right and over via step/flake, PR.

8. Waffle (7b+) short technical start via rib of open corner. Desperate roof sequence.

9. Titter Ye Not (8a) ★ direct assault of the roof. Knees aloud.

10. System Malfunction (7b) ★★ super roof problem through left side of roof.

11. Mega-Bites (7b) another fine power problem to left, before platform and above stump.

12. Running on Empty E5 6a diagonal rightwards across wall from platform. Airy.

13. Jackson's Browned Off (6c+) direct, not right, from platform gives good problem.

14. Far from the Madding Crowd (7b+) ★ gained from the left-hand side of upper tier.

15. Poultry in Motion (7b+) ★ a few hard sharp pulls on the headwall.

16. Evidently Chickentown (7c) ★★ superb power moves into bottomless finger crack.

17. Just Pullet (7a+) ★ exposed open line to the left via flakes.

18. Cockerel Cry (6c+) ★ wall left of Jackson's and direct via bulges above.

19. Smelting Pot (6c+) ★ the blunt rib left of crack and tough, wall above break.

20. Case Adjourned (6c+) ★★ fine lower wall with fingery start leads to bold open face above. Maybe E5 6a is better.

Open Gate (7a+) ★★★ a classic with a certain charm on the upper wall. Now less bold since rebolting.

Pour Dill (7b+) ★★ fine sequence on the upper wall. Has glued on hold. Pour mon chien.

Short Sharp Shock (7c+) ★ desperate wall. Rarely repeated.

The next series of routes begin at a higher level up and to the left.

The Incredible Pierre (7a+) ★ bulges and face from right-hand side of terrace.

The Burqa King (7b) ★ bulge and smooth-looking face to left.

The Bride and the Groom (6c+) ★ another bulge and face, getting easier above.


Osher, Osher, Osher (7a+) very fingery lower bulge and easier wall above.

Another Brick in the Wall (7b+) first line of BRs visible from left.

Home from Home E4 6a at left-hand end. Hidden under ivy and needs rebolting.

A further 50m along the path to the left of the crag are a quartet of routes for the connoisseur who has done everything.

Magician's Enemy (6b) takes a wall and bulge, Birthday Boy (7b+) a wall and desperate bulge and smooth wall, Pulsar (7a) ★ a wall and fine shallow groove and War Locks (6c+) a bouldery wall and bulge.