1. Within Reach (6c)
A short technical face with reachy overlap. High first bolt.
2. Machineries of Joy E1 5b,5b ★
The first flake on the wall followed by a traverse right. Shallow groove above gully, gained from left.
3. Ape Index E6 6c
The name says it all. Desperate, reach dependent, wall above overlap, PR.
4. Mad Dogs and Englishmen E3 5c ★★★
A trad classic. From Machineries, go left to flake and up and left through overlap. Finish by delicate traverse right and up.
5. Spazz Energy (7a+) ★
Takes a diagonal line through undercuts with hard moves left to flake.
6. A Touch of Class E5 6a ★
A hybrid but good. From base of flake go rightwards to join Mad Dogs. Finish direct via shallow groove.
7. Spizz Energy E5 6b ★★★
Another old classic. Diagonal line, fixed gear, to undercut. Exit directly, hard.
8. Lightweight (7c) ★★
Super-technical wall climbing leads to undercuts. Bold power moves to finish.
9. Seven Pounds Overweight (7c+) ★
A climber’s motto? Overlap, scoop and finish of Lightweight.
10. Gonads (8a+) ★★
The centre of the overhung wall leading leftwards onto a flake line. A desperate sequence.
11. Buster (8a+) ★
The evil-looking direct start.
12. Minos (7c+) ★★
A desperate power start leads onto brilliant open face climbing.
13. Aberration (7c+) ★★
From just above TR on Goldfinger, traverse rightwards above lip and so into Gonads.
14. Flight of Icarus E6 6b ★★
Appropriately named. A bold excursion via a faint grey corner an overlap and bold wall.
15. Goldfinger E2 6a ★
A technical start past a TR gains a hanging flake. Up to break, step left and up exiting right from the break.
16. A Rooster in the Hen House (6b+)
A tricky start then rightwards line left of Goldfinger. Staples.
17. The Chicken Run HVS 5a, 5a ★
Corner and crack, then long traverse right from belay. Old top pitch fell down!
18. Rock Follies E1 5a, 5a
A poor route on the left wall of corner and finishing via thin crack in headwall - needs cleaning.