Plum Buttress

Plum Buttress topo

The huge protruding buttress on the right-hand side of the track when walking down the dale from Topley Pike gives a number of classic traditional and sport pitches.

At the left-hand side of the buttress is a short wall with two sport routes:

  1. Cupid Sails (6c) a bulge and wall is the left-hand line
  2. Piccalilli Circus (6b)the fingery right-hand line

1. Less of Your Lip (7b+) the left-hand line moving left from the grassy ledge and with hard moves round the bulge.

2. Liposuction (7b+) branches left from the start of A Bit Lippy to climb roof. Pre-clip 3rd BR.

3. A Bit Lippy (7b+) Easier wall to boulder overhang Pre-clip 3rd BR.

4. A Bit on the Side (6c) ★ branches left from the start to a pleasant open wall. A new direct start has been added.

5. My Secret Life (7a) ★ juggy bulges and a hard move from the top break.

6. The Wilderness Years (7b+) ★ long line up the left-hand side of the rounded arete with very definite crux.

7. Scratch Race (7a) ★ directly up the arete with short hard section and technical interest above.

8. The Massive (6b+) ★ takes the right-hand side of the arete with tricky moves and good rest.

9. Stalk VS 4c ★★ the large corner gained via its right-hand wall.

10. Sparta in His Eyes (E1 5b)

11. Giants (6c) ★★ big long route with superb varied climbing: technical lower bulge and juggy upper overhangs. A little friable on overlaps but cleaning up. (photo)

12. Gigantic (6c+) ★★ an exciting righthand extension to Giants.

13. Mrs Brown (7c) ★ long sport route with defined difficulties through the roofs

14. Raisin Roof (E4 6a)

15. Big Plum E6 6c ★★ central line with mean moves through large overhang.

Damson in Distress (7c) ★★ takes Mrs Brown to the roof then swings up and R into Big Plum and climbs it's crux. Move up and then traverse right into The Spider. Finish up this. Very exposed.

16. The Spider (8a) ★★★ the central roofs. Impressive.

A Chip off the Old Block (7c+) ★ take Sloe Gin until over the first roof then make hard moves up and left to join The Spider. Finish up this.

18. Sloe Gin (7c) ★★ now climbed in one pitch to a lower off on Sirplum. 17 The original LH finish is seldom climbed.

19. Sirplum HVS 4c, 5b ★★★ the original classic wandering up the face with the hardest moves from the mid-height belay.