Long Wall Right-Hand

Long Wall Right Hand topo

1. The Balancing Act (7b)
A fine route, intricate lower down and an exciting juggy finish.

2. Trick Show (7b+)
A desperate sequence on the lower wall leads to easier climbing to roof. Grope through to top.

3. Casamance (7a+)
Climb direct via a scoop to join Macumba. Harder but with a good rest at half height.

4. Macumba (7a+)
Go left out of Freeway and up to overlap. Hard finale.

5. Freeway (HVS 5a)
The large corner line. A old classic that’s rarely climbed nowadays.

6. Titanic (7b+) ★★
The obvious very overhanging wall is gained from the left. Harder for the short.

7. Big News Man Mouth (7b+) ★★
Start up Titanic but move right around the arête onto the face to finish up the next route.

8. North Atlantic Drift (8a) ★★
Climb Atlantic Realm up the corner and past the roof then head up leftwards up the face.

9. Atlantic Realm (7b+) ★★
Starts under the roof. Up and then right onto the headwall.

10. Gob on the Mountain (7c)
Starts to the right of the big roof. Desperate moves on an ear of rock.

11. Gobstopper (7c)
An independent direct finish to Gob on the Mountain.

12. Meterol (7b+) ★★
Superb climbing left of the faint groove line. Desperate moves on a tiny spike.

13. Breathless (7c+) ★★
Needs rebolting since loss of holds. Clipping the second bolt is hard and dangerous so it’s best to pre-clip it with a stick at present.

14. Cathedral Taste (7b+) ★★
Hard blind moves low down to gain the balancy slab above.

15. A Bout de Soufflé (7c) ★★
Hard moves on tiny pockets from a break with a useful stump. Slippery above.

16. Multiplex (E4 6b) ★★
The original route of the wall from the pre-sport era with good climbing. Leftwards from alcove to ledge, then slab above. The direct start is Smutt (E5 6c).

17. Child Lock (7a+)
A direct version of the previous route. Start up that Multiplex and exit the right side of alcove and plough straight on up.

18. Hot Panties (7a)
A powerful start leads to a fingery finish.

19. Steaming Strides (7a+)
Climb up Hot Panties heading up leftwards where that route goes right. Slopers and crimps.

20. Nookie Bear (7a)
Three hard moves and 3BRs. Tiny holds and split fingers?

About 20 metres or so to the right of the last route is a short, smooth wall with 3 bolts. This is the line of Skid Marks (6c). Possibly harder since the loss of a hold.