Long Wall Right-Hand

Long Wall Right Hand topo

About 50 feet or so to the right of the first route is a smooth wall with 3BRs. This is the line of Skid Marks (6b+). Possibly harder since the loss of a hold.

1. Child's Play E4 6a difficult to spot. Finger pockets on the left-hand side of a scoop with PR above.

2. Nookie Bear (7a) three hard moves and 3BRs. Tinies and split fingers?

3. Hot Panties (7a) ★ another finger-ripping test piece for the grade.

4. Steaming Strides (7a+) ★ left-hand finish with slopers and crimps.

5. Child Lock (7a+) ★ exits right side of alcove and ploughs straight on up. Fingery again.

6. Multiplex E4 6b ★★ the original route of the wall and still its best. Leftwards from alcove to ledge, then slab above. Smutt E5 6c is the direct start.

7. A Bout de Soufflé (7c) ★★ hard moves on tiny pockets from a break with a useful stump. Slippery above.

8. Cathedral Taste (7b+) ★★ more of the same to the left with blind moves low down. Pleasant and open above.

9. Breathless E6 6c ★★ desperate moves on the intricate face to the left. Hard to clip some of the gear.

10. Meterol (7b+) ★★ superb climbing left of the faint groove line. Desperate moves on a tiny spike.

11. Gob on the Mountain (7c) ★ just left again. Desperate moves on an ear of rock.

Gobstopper (7c) ★ adds an independent direct finish to Gob on the Mountain.

12. Atlantic Realm (7b+) ★★ starts under the roof. Up and then right onto the headwall.

13. Big News Man Mouth Was 7b but holds have come off. Unclimbable?

Project The overhanging wall

14. Freeway HVS 5a the large corner line. A classic of its type and rarely climbed.

15. Macumba (7a+) ★ left out of Freeway and up to overlap. Hard finale.

16. Casamance (7a+) ★ direct via scoop to join Macumba. Harder but with a good rest at half height.

17. Trick Show (7b+) ★ desperate sequence on the lower wall leads to easier climbing to roof. Grope through to top.

18. The Balancing Act (7b) ★ a fine route, intricate lower down and an exciting juggy finish.

19. Rolling Stone E4 6b just left and somewhat eliminated by The Balancing Act.

Monopedagogue E3 5c the long slim corner line. Excellent but very bold low down.