Queer Street Area

1. Two Generations E6 6b ★ An ill-frequented route with a bold and tricky initial 10m from where the difficulties and boldness ease. Climb up to a small flake at 5m and arrange some runners before steeping right, thread, and embarking on a series of very fingery moves to a flake. Continue slightly rightwards past a small groove to reach easier ground leading to the girdle break.

2. Captain Ahab (7b) the bulging wall to the left of the Body Line.

3. The Body Line E4 6a From the large bushy yew tree in the girdle break make a huge effort to battle through it into the scoop above. Climb this past some old BRs, quickly easing, until moves leftwards and up gain easier ground and trees above.

4. Autobahn E5 6b ★★★ one of the harder classics of the crag and Peak limestone. Superb climbing and moves mixed with good but hard-earned protection making it a real pump fest. Start below the leaning pink-flecked wall to the right. Climb a short wall to gain a leftwards-facing flake. Stand up and then make a series of fingery moves leftwards along a line small undercut flakes until a tricky, more like awkward, move to pass a bulge. Pull left through this to a small ledge and rest. The wall above relents in difficulty for the large yew tree to be gained.

5. Lily Street E5 6b ★ Another worthwhile route with a well-defined hard section. Climb the wall 3m right of Autobahn to reach an old thread runner. Move slightly left and up to a bulge, thread runner, and make a very extending series of moves, reach dependent, to gain the traverse of Queer Street. Finish up this.

6. Queer Street E3 6a ★★★ an old classic with superb climbing on a prominent flake line that is rewarded by a determined. Climb the short initial groove and move slightly left into the flake line. This leads a little frantically to a thread runner, where a step left lands you on a small ledge. Climb the easier face above to a yew tree belay. It is also possible to finish direct from the thread runner at the same grade but with a trickier few moves.

7. 42nd Street E3 5c ★★ Another very fine and popular pitch with a tricky start and bolder moves higher up but close to the lowest limit of the grade. Start below the left centre of the clean white wall and 5m left of a clean groove system. Climb slightly leftwards with a fingery pull to a break and stand up to an easing in angle. Trend rightwards below the white wall to gain a good hold, then climb the vague blunt rib above and slightly leftwards where better holds soon arrive and lead to the break.

8. Moby Dick (7c) The strenuous bulging wall 6m left of Theology

9. Theology (7c) ★★ Hard and fingery, even more so since the loss of a crucial hold. From the belay of 42nd Street, climb the impressive and exposed bulging arete to finish via a thin crack, that of Duel in the Sun.

10. Duel in the Sun E5 6b ★★ A brilliant pitch situated high on the crag above 42nd Street. Its only deficiency is its relatively short length but it still packs a punch. From the belay of 42nd Street, step right and pull through the bulge into a scoop, peg runner. Move up and leftwards to a good flake hold, then step right and pull through a bulge using a hidden hold followed by a hard move to gain the break. Move left and finish via a thin crack.

11. Hatred E4 5c despite being something of an eliminate, this still provides a good pitch. Start at the shallow groove to the right of 42nd Street. Climb the groove and avoiding the traverse right of Sunny Goodge Street, continue straight up the vague rib above. Good climbing with only a modicum of comforting protection.

12. Sunny Goodge Street E2 5b ★ Another very worthwhile pitch with short-lived but airy difficulties. Climb the shallow groove of Hatred before transferring rightwards to reach a prominent flake. Climb this and where it ends continue directly to the break.

13. Lom Attack E4 6a a good new route taking the bulge immediately to the left of a shallow scoop and the easier blunt white rib above a small tree.

14. Sellar Dweller E4 6b ★ an excellent new find tackling the scoop to the right, peg runner, and fine wall above to a convenient tree belay.