Central Area

1. Less Than Zero E3 5c * A good little route with a short section of fingery and slightly bold climbing. Climb the shallow groove to the right of the main angle of the bay to reach a thread on the left. Move left to a flake and make a tricky move over a bulge to gain better holds. Continue more easily directly to the break.

2. Meditation E1 5b *** a super little route with pleasantly sustained climbing on fine quality rock. Climb the shallow groove as for Less Than Zero then make an intricate traverse right followed by moves up on good holds to gain white scoop. Cross this rightwards past a bulge to gain the girdle break.

3. Valentine E1 5b * Climb the wall 5m to the right past a series of saplings to reach the scoop of Meditation. Move left to a small tree and continue direct to reach the break. The top pitch, now spooky E5 6b due to the state of the in-situ gear, climbs the broad open scoop above the break.

4. Approaching E3 5c * an untravelled route with very good climbing. Climb the wall to the right, thread runner, to gain a flake leading leftwards into the scoop. Exit leftwards from this into a short groove leading to the finish of Meditation.

5. Ceramic E4 5c *** a beautiful route taking the cleanly sculptured white groove in the centre of the upper part of the face. Bold and showing the signs of wear. Starting directly below the groove, climb relatively easily to and into the groove. Exiting it provides the crux and a feeling of insecurity.

6. Ceramic Extension E5 6a *** the superb wall above the groove gives a brilliant finale. If you found the groove OK, then go for it, otherwise you will have to relive the whole experience again. From the threads atop the groove, pull over the bulge onto the wall and clip a peg runner out to the right with some relief. Now pass it rightwards in favour of the large flake which gives an easier finale in a fine position.

7. Terrorcotta E6 6c a very bold offering squeezed onto the rock right of Ceramic. Follow Ceramic to the base of the groove, arrange some poor protection, then step right and climb the fine wall, gradually easing, to reach the girdle break. Pull straight over the bulge on poor sloping holds and then finally gain the peg on Ceramic Extension. Finish easily up the large flake above.

8. Laughing E6 6b ** A fine bold pitch, taking the hanging white wall to the right of Ceramic. Climb the wall 5m to the right to reach a bulge above an easing in angle. Pull through the bulge, then swing left to below the wall, BR. Climb the centre of this rather boldly to better holds leading to the break.

9. Splintered Perspex E3 6a ** a super route at a standard that attracted a good amount of attention. Climb the wall to the right to reach a good resting area on a small ledge below the white wall. Move slightly rightwards and climb the groove slightly leftwards via a peg runner before continuing directly to the break.

10. A Nasty Farming Accident (7b) From the belay on Splintered Perspex, climb the bulge and shallow groove to a lower-off station.

11. Great Central Route E2 5a, 5c ** a classic of the crack but with a particularly trying move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a good HVS in its own right. 1 25m Climb the prominent flake/groove moving rightwards to a small tree. The wall above gives easier climbing to reach the break. 2. 20m Step left and pull through the large bulge with difficulty, peg runner. Finish up the large groove above.

12. Of Youth E3 5c * worthwhile. From just to the right of the groove of Great Central Route, climb the wall trending leftwards to gain a small tree. The wall above this gives excellent climbing to reach the girdle break.

13. Shake E1 5b * the next flakeline again gives a pleasant pitch. Trend rightwards to gain the flake and follow it to the break. A rightwards alternative named

14. Highway 57 moves right from the flake after 10m to climb the wall again at E1 5b.