This is the usually first area you reach when walking through the woods and is the most popular area at Smalldale with a number of fine routes especially the mid 6’s. The wall has few strong natural features so locating the routes can be tricky at first sight. The most obvious feature is the square cut miner’s shaft entrance. Route number 9, More Chattery Teeth climbs straight above this.
1. Sock it to ’em (5) ★★
Excellent open face.
2. Stone the Crows (6b) ★
Wall and cracks to final tower in fine positions.
3. Blockheads (6c)
New line via edge of white streak.
4. Learn the Lingo (6c) ★★
Long sustained face climb.
5. Mr. Love Pants (6b+) ★★
From the 2nd bolt on Learn the Lingo move up and right and follow the line of bolts to the BB just below the top.
6. Shanacie (6b) ★★
Now climbed with a direct start and central section.
7. Riding the Bullet (6c) ★★
Open face to excellent finish.
8. Open Season (6a+) ★
Steep start, then pleasant to crack finale.
9. More Chattery Teeth (6b) ★★
Tricky start to easier climbing right of crack.
10. Upminster Kid (6b)
Steep face joining Going Straight near the top
11. Going Straight (6b+) ★★
Superb face climbing to finish via tower.
12. Friend 15 (6b)
Climbs the wall via a black section to a belay below broken rock.
13. Shame on You (6b)
Short technical face from ramp.
14. The Awesome Foursome (6b+)
A short (6m) boulder problem route.
15. Single Decker (6a+)
Another short route with one hard move.
The following three routes are not on the topo but just a short distance further right:
Triple Sec (6b+)
Easy wall to ledge and pillar above. Hollow central section.
More for Four (6b+)
Easy lower wall to ledges and arete above.
Double Wammy (6b+) ★
Terraced wall at right of crag.