THis is the first area you reach when walking through the woods and is the most popular area at Smalldale with a number of fine routes especially the mid 6's.
1. Sock it to 'em (5)
2. Stone the Crows (6b) ★ wall and cracks to final tower in fine positions.
3. Blockheads (6c) new line via edge of white streak.
4. Learn the Lingo (6c) ★★ long sustained face climb. Rebolted.
5. Mr. Love Pants (6b+) ★★ more of the same just right. Rebolted.
6. Shanacie (6b) ★★ now climbed with a direct start and central section. Rebolted.
7. Riding the Bullet (6c) ★★ open face to excellent finish. Rebolted. Extra bolts added.
8. More Chattery Teeth (6b) ★★ tricky start to easier climbing right of crack.Rebolted. Extra bolts added.
9. (Open Season+) ★ steep start, then pleasant to crack finale. Rebolted
10. Upminster Kid (6b) steep face to join:Rebolted. Extra bolts added.
11. Going Straight (6b+) ★★ superb face climbing to finish via tower. Rebolted.
12. Friend 15 (6b) new direct start.Rebolted. Extra bolts added.
13. Shame on You (6b) short technical face from ramp. Rebolted.
14. The Awesome Foursome (6b+) short boulder problem route
15. Single Decker (6a+) short route with one hard move.
Two routes further right, not shown on topo are:
Triple Sec (6b+) easy wall to ledge and pillar above. Hollow central section.
More for Four (6b+) Easy lower wall to ledges and arete above.
Double Wammy (6b+) ★ terraced wall at right of crag.