This buttress is situated at the right-hand end of the lower tier facing the turquoise pool. It consists of a bay of rock with some excellent sport climbs and four long-neglected but worthwhile traditional climbs.
a. Good Friend (6c+) desperate boulder problem b. Bad Friend (6b) short wall c. Unknown Friend (6b) thin corner
1. Old Fiends (6c+) ★ excellent wall above problematic bulge on perfect rock. Rebolted
2. Carvery (6a+) superb calcite crack onto delicate face above. Can be dusty.
3. The Wrong Unconquerable (6b) ★ classic crackline on unusual rock to superb finale on a layback flake. "It’s the same as Left Unconquerable but the other way around."
4. Fartless (7a+) ★ short tricky section low down followed by hard fingery sequence on upper wall. Bouldery.
5. Strap a Doc to Me (6c) the unusually fluted face on the right. Again worthwhile.
1. The Gypsy King’s (6c) ★ isolated arete between faces with fine climbing. Unusual. Rebolted
2. Gooncrack (6b+) obvious crack in sidewall with definite short crux section
3. Forfeit or Doom (6b+) ★ the prominent arete with some good climbing above the pinnacle.
4. Meshrug a my shoulders (6b) face about right-hand side of pinnacle on ledge.
5. Profitless (6b+) ★ balancy face climbing above ledge to strenuous finale through crack in overlap.
6. Merry Pheasant (6a+) thin grassy cracks to the right ledge to another crack through the overlap. Rebolted
7. Moontalk (6b+) technical face climbing with a short hard section. Tricky final move. Rebolted
8. Frantic Manoeuvres (6b) ★★ excellent clean climbing past a halfway ledge and final tricky move
9. Moon Track (6b) ★ fine climbing via a thin crack system to a crux finale
10. Bonedigger (6a+) ★ prominent thin crack now cleaned out
11. Prefect Day (6b) ★★ highly pleasant face climbing with tricky moves through the final steepening. Rebolted
12. Silently Sprung (6b) ★ the face and arete just to the right. Rebolted
13. Steppin' Off (5) cleaned face leading to corner
14. Thirty Nine and a Half Steps (6a) cleaned crackline and short headwall now fully gardened
15. White Wind (6a+) the final section of face gives enjoyable climbing with a half height ledge. Rebolted
16. Blind Wind (6a) crack system and short wall at right-hand edge of wall