Suicide Crack Area

The next section of cliff is identified by a large detached pillar at its right-hand side. It consists of a number of good little routes dominated by the fine blunt arete of Butter Arete and the thin crack system of Suicide Crack, both minor classics of the escarpment.

1. Margarine Arete (HVS 5a) the rounded arete passing left and back right at mid-height.

2. Whim (HVS 5a) ★★ fine climbing on a line of flakes and cracks to the right.

3. Windhover (E2 5c) ★★ a good route. Climb the white groove and wall to gain a steep finger crack. Climb this with a determined approach to good holds at the top.

4. Ivy Groove (VS 4b) climbs cracks and a small corner beginning just right of a small pinnacle in the ground.

5. Butter Arete (E3 5b) ★★ the bold rounded arete gives a fine climb with very limited protection.

6. Suicide Crack (E3 6a) ★★ the superb thin crack in the fine wall gives a gem of a route with excellent protection.

7. J.T.P. (HVS 5a) poor climbing avoiding an easier alternatives to the right and climbs a prominent jamming and layback crack.

8. Open Book S the obvious line in the bay gives good climbing but is spoilt by a dubious block at half-height.

9. Slapalong (VS 4c) moves rightwards out of Open Book via a ramp to finish on the left-hand side of the arete.

10. Hell's Arete (E4 6a) the rounded arete to the right gives a good line with small hollow holds and limited protection. After a tricky start and difficult moves rightwards the route slowly eases towards the top.

11. Fall Out (E1 5b) ★★ fine climbing via the fine crack with excellent gear throughout.

12. Into the Fire (E5 6a) ★ a spooky little route taking the faint thin crack on the steeper-than-it-looks wall. Sustained.

13. A'cheval (VD) The gully is a better descent.

14. Copper Pinnacle (HS) The crack between the gullies.

15. Squirm (D) The gully is better as a descent, just.